McCall 1310 - Boys' or Girls Western Shirts

 1946.  With Embroidery or applique trim.

A terrific western shirt, particularly appealing because it allows the girls to play, perhaps in the Dale Evans role.  Who wouldn't want to be "Queen of the West!"

From http://www.denveroldwest.com/

This printed pattern has been cut but doesn't seem to have been used.

McCall 1332 - Men's Western Shirt

1947.

This is the earliest western shirt pattern I've found thus far.  Unlike some of the later western shirt patterns, this is purely a fancy dress shirt - no workaday checks or stripes are illustrated here.  Note the spectacular embroidered cuffs on Mr. A's shirt.

McCall was based in New York City, and I suspect their illustrators were mostly local talent, so their knowledge of cowboys may be based almost entirely on the oaters they took in at the Saturday matinees.  Any Saturday would do; between 1943 and 1947, almost 500 westerns were released in the United States, starring the likes of John Wayne, Randolph Scott, Joel McCrae, Roy Rogers; even Errol Flynn and Robert Mitchum did their time in a Stetson during these years.  (Mr. B. would appear to be related to both Randolph Scott and John Wayne.)

A few of Roy Rogers's costume changes, courtesy of LIFE magazine

But why did McCall think this pattern was necessary to their product line?  Who was buying such flamboyant western shirt patterns?  Did ranch wives make these shirts up for their menfolk for rodeo days and Saturday night dances?  Did wealthy dudes wear these while carefully rusticating at ranches catering to their dreams of a simpler, more direct life?  Did anybody east of the Mississippi wear these splendid shirts?

McCall's 2118 Men's Western Shirt

1956.

I'm beginning to detect a certain convention in the illustrations for patterns for western shirts.  There will be three views; a workaday view, a plaid or checked view, and a fancy view.

Piping the extravagantly shaped yoke on this one is may result in the use of strong language.  The fancy view includes some pretty complex applique as well as the deep shaped cuffs with all those little buttons.

The maker made plenty of notes to herself on the envelope, though I can't quite decipher them all.  The transfers are missing, which is quite common.

Western shirts are generally quite slim-fitting, but this pattern also offers you the option of not using the back darts, giving a little more ease for a true working garment.  (You get yourself dressed up in that fancy, darted, appliqued version, about the heaviest thing you're going to lift is your hat to a lady.)

McCall's 1925 - Men's Western Shirt

1952.

The notched yoke and pocket flaps are nice design features.  Note the interesting design effects you can get simply by using the grain of your fabric.  In View A the yoke and pocket flaps have been cut on the bias.  In View B the yoke, pockets, cuffs have been cut cross-wise on the fabric to contrast with the body and sleeves.  View C is beautifully embroidered; best wear for rodeo days.

Simplicity 4150 - Men's Western Shirt

1952

Western shirt patterns for both men and women seem to start showing up in the late 1940s and are still available today. This one is pretty typical for the period, and shows up on eBay quite regularly, so it must have been popular.

Suggested fabrics include Cotton, broadcloth, rayon, wool, flannel, denim, gabardine, corduroy, and broadcloth.

Doing a good job of piping pointed yokes and shaped sleeve plackets is no joke; this is not a trivial garment to make.