tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-70432478471214480662024-03-05T06:53:20.162-08:00Unsung Sewing Patternsan archaeology of home sewingandrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.comBlogger186125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-1372820794276416782024-01-05T11:23:00.000-08:002024-01-05T12:13:46.160-08:00Home Pattern Company 157 - Ladies' Matinee or Morning Blouse<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPlnXcvRpyOkoYoTjq-Yd5zxtIUQq5630zGPjTU5aa1GWNq3LI7RSxm-kOZDJdb6OYBn6bSZqrlt-GLVxJL863IBM9BSSmMdllK6tbS9lLGhe2TbX5sZf4iCKyrJf6m20q3aAuGblCvU/s1600-h/Home_Pattern_157_front.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219414322856161970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPlnXcvRpyOkoYoTjq-Yd5zxtIUQq5630zGPjTU5aa1GWNq3LI7RSxm-kOZDJdb6OYBn6bSZqrlt-GLVxJL863IBM9BSSmMdllK6tbS9lLGhe2TbX5sZf4iCKyrJf6m20q3aAuGblCvU/s640/Home_Pattern_157_front.JPG" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" width="376" /></a> Authorized by the American Red Cross, this pattern was produced during World War I (1914-1918.)<div><br />The pattern is referenced in <a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/Junior_Red_Cross_Activities/mh_cAAAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1" target="_blank"><i>Junior Red Cross Activities Teachers Manual</i></a>, American Red Cross publication #606, published on October 15, 1918. The <i>Manual</i> is a terrific resource for understanding how war work could be integrated into school work, starting even in the primary grades. Before getting into the specifics of the articles to be produced, the manual discusses how the schools' war work can be used to teach social responsibility and contribute to community service. (See Chapter V)</div><div><br /></div><div>Thus, while sewing clothes for refugees was incorporated into home economics instruction, it could also be used to teach geography about France and Belgium, and current events about the war. In addition to sewing skills, other aspects household economy to be taught included clothing care and repair, and clothing the baby. (See Chapter VIII)</div><div><br /></div><div>The manual states that "The garments to be made may seem somewhat unattractive in color and design and materials used. Remember that we cannot expect the French and Belgian people to change their habits and customs and if we wish to be truly helpful we must not try to force our opinions and practices upon them when they have definite ideas as to what they wish." (p. 301) In particular, the Belgians were thought to have a preference for dark colors, though part of this may have been due to limited resources for laundering.</div><div><br /></div><div>At this time, the term "morning blouse" appears to be used for a garment worn at home while attending to the morning's household chores. In the February 15 issue of <i>Vogue</i> magazine for 1917, patterns for morning clothes and sports clothes are shown on page 82. (A little confusingly, the model wearing Vogue's stylish version of a morning blouse is shown holding a tennis racquet.) The construction and materials used would allow the morning blouse to be laundered at home.</div><div><br /></div><div>By the third year of high-school, students could make the morning blouse in "flannel, outing flannel, or very heavy galatea, dark colors only." (p. 362) At this time, flannel would have been understood to be wool flannel, while outing flannel was made of cotton. Galatea was a firmly woven cotton fabric, typically twill or sateen weave, usually used for nurses' uniforms and children's clothes. </div><div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>Note that the instructions on the back of the envelope explain how to make a flat felled seam, advising the maker to observe how the sleeves of a man's shirt are sewed into the armhole. This tells us that such seams were common in men's shirts but probably not in ladies' clothing. The strengthening provided by a flat-felled seam justifies the additional time it would have taken to make the seam.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Here is a front view of the blouse made up in a dark cotton remnant, both without and with the belt:</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zDxC-HBss_7FrFjEBsAAOA?authkey=SvwKTOsF6Nc" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img height="640" src="https://lh4.ggpht.com/andrea.at.the.blue.door/SNAUWTgKiUI/AAAAAAAAAxI/Cw43ggPF0wk/s400/100_1298.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: right;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: "lucida grande"; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.ggpht.com/andrea.at.the.blue.door/SNAS3uDnqvI/AAAAAAAAAxA/g9gdT8HVuRI/s400/100_1292.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh6.ggpht.com/andrea.at.the.blue.door/SNAS3uDnqvI/AAAAAAAAAxA/g9gdT8HVuRI/s400/100_1292.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is an unprinted pattern.</div><div style="text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUJZMWwR1woV3kKEDdxOVmIpgf6bjDTCuKhv6n_OfJUTxLqDw2u1o5Jx7I5bgfnNlZzcIccjriPMn4iAykx4WT7Y2n6hMA7o2yvSmBDOCgywU7liqlgSfOWihrUixd5WXZ4DmGCLfvEqY0bBROrj3SPvd0w9C3AuIrBDnu8bwFnJjLb2H-4ZHyPH_p4Fk/s1296/Home_Pattern_157_back.JPG" style="font-family: "lucida grande"; font-size: 11px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; white-space: pre;"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="1296" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUJZMWwR1woV3kKEDdxOVmIpgf6bjDTCuKhv6n_OfJUTxLqDw2u1o5Jx7I5bgfnNlZzcIccjriPMn4iAykx4WT7Y2n6hMA7o2yvSmBDOCgywU7liqlgSfOWihrUixd5WXZ4DmGCLfvEqY0bBROrj3SPvd0w9C3AuIrBDnu8bwFnJjLb2H-4ZHyPH_p4Fk/w640-h374/Home_Pattern_157_back.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: right;"><div style="color: #666666; font-family: "lucida grande"; font-size: 11px; text-align: center; white-space: pre;"><br /></div></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">
Originally posted on 4 July 2008, substantially rewritten with new information on 5 January 2024.</span></i></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-86084461610370028932023-10-08T00:00:00.004-07:002023-10-08T00:00:00.142-07:00Vogue 590 - Misses' Dress and Top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1pn1TyhHfKjc79xxrLk10qy8Z-lyLhUokTs7RhlA1czJ9fa5JPE1grzW0CHjAZz6ni7Obfu665Eql8jBAfVtj_PxJsTZRsY8naLI4gBvt2zq_HpmG-1uMckjOeFao-5Vtu05T0snty0Fa3S7GOAohUjnpXJm8pf7yC3xDPDW2HrLn3oNLYdTc6l3YZw/s3416/Vogue_590_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3416" data-original-width="2198" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1pn1TyhHfKjc79xxrLk10qy8Z-lyLhUokTs7RhlA1czJ9fa5JPE1grzW0CHjAZz6ni7Obfu665Eql8jBAfVtj_PxJsTZRsY8naLI4gBvt2zq_HpmG-1uMckjOeFao-5Vtu05T0snty0Fa3S7GOAohUjnpXJm8pf7yC3xDPDW2HrLn3oNLYdTc6l3YZw/w412-h640/Vogue_590_f.jpg" width="412" /></a></div><p>Early 1980s. This pattern was also issued by Vogue as number 8826 with the same cover artwork. Today it shows up frequently on eBay and Etsy.</p><p>Born in England on October 8, 1928, Erica Wilson graduated from the Royal School of Needlework in 1948 before moving to the United States in 1954. She became well-known for her newspaper column, books, needlepoint kits (some in association with the Metropolitan Museum of Art) and her television show on PBS. At that time there were few other books available on traditional smocks and smocking, particularly in the United States.</p><p>A similar smock was featured in Wilson's 1981 book <a href="<iframe src="https://archive.org/embed/ericawilsonsneed0000wils" width="560" height="384" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="true" mozallowfullscreen="true" allowfullscreen></iframe>"><i>Erica</i> <i>Wilson's Needlework to Wea</i>r</a>, on pages 50 and 78.</p><p>This pattern would have appealed to Wilson's fans during a period of nostalgia for "traditional" crafts. Folkwear published their English smock pattern at about the same time as the Vogue pattern.</p><p>While the pattern is for a women's garment which Vogue refers to a dress or top, originally this garment was called a "smock frock." Smock frocks, some of them beautifully embroidered as well as smocked, were worn by agricultural laborers in parts of England during the nineteenth century. As farming became increasingly mechanized throughout the century, smock frocks would have been unsafe to wear around agricultural equipment and eventually became obsolete. (1)</p><p>A surprising number of the nicest smock frocks eventually ended up in <a href="https://merl.reading.ac.uk/explore/online-exhibitions/smocks/">museums</a>. Subsequently, smocking itself has had periods of popularity over the years, often for children's clothes. I recall having a smocked dress when I was a small child.</p><p>The Vogue pattern hews pretty closely to traditional smocks' construction composed of rectangles of fabric. The shaped yoke and sleeve are seen in some later traditional smocks and for a modern wearer provide a slightly better fit through the upper body.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxtlkGYwWstgvVGqMc8KX8mSRha_DixxN5jfh7y5feoG23N3frHPDZNnz9PaSgoHjKYv_v_Tb-W8zZ7VoKUjU9MVBk6HHuV6Ns2N1l3t1xYWBM7EiFu_Xk1GhTIbk2KCh-sOiaoLj8K45mPaYxT43oEuJ-wvIX5WPx2aqprLnvz2QerccXkReS5zANUM/s3971/Vogue_590_instructions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3971" data-original-width="1893" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxtlkGYwWstgvVGqMc8KX8mSRha_DixxN5jfh7y5feoG23N3frHPDZNnz9PaSgoHjKYv_v_Tb-W8zZ7VoKUjU9MVBk6HHuV6Ns2N1l3t1xYWBM7EiFu_Xk1GhTIbk2KCh-sOiaoLj8K45mPaYxT43oEuJ-wvIX5WPx2aqprLnvz2QerccXkReS5zANUM/w306-h640/Vogue_590_instructions.jpg" width="306" /></a></div><p>In addition to the construction instructions, extensive instructions are provided for the smocking and the embroidery.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibF95-yeYV_LBfC3892wp_v3Gehc03Isdf2QMXBR1yASAY-uKIziu_oDTuMDWjFRiUrT4nMY6o98p3mOrUMS8PpccX273bfZzfnww0564QffNTq00fW9sD-MfYe7rFD_e9wlJSEQBnla7C_6sqtsv6fTlH9GM5EP-m9ZjiOA1mAXJ_s5I-RSbip4mmW6A/s5326/Vogue_590_instructions0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4303" data-original-width="5326" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibF95-yeYV_LBfC3892wp_v3Gehc03Isdf2QMXBR1yASAY-uKIziu_oDTuMDWjFRiUrT4nMY6o98p3mOrUMS8PpccX273bfZzfnww0564QffNTq00fW9sD-MfYe7rFD_e9wlJSEQBnla7C_6sqtsv6fTlH9GM5EP-m9ZjiOA1mAXJ_s5I-RSbip4mmW6A/w640-h518/Vogue_590_instructions0001.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLNAGnlVmZDcGfi8Fj2bkrvHV99hIkKe12YCssSyJBa5ybQfLR-UqkLUxbSP4C6Rp1KnMJ20_S9fa04UAuIRKKYKQi7poyMkhuQ6TctFkugEyZiWau1jsZlzDp8jSNWFIICezXU6YvZwODthfyplpjG0U36-T6juOcSL86Kl3fNVlXPWeIU9sfW5jbOo/s2253/Vogue_590_instructions0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2253" data-original-width="1900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLNAGnlVmZDcGfi8Fj2bkrvHV99hIkKe12YCssSyJBa5ybQfLR-UqkLUxbSP4C6Rp1KnMJ20_S9fa04UAuIRKKYKQi7poyMkhuQ6TctFkugEyZiWau1jsZlzDp8jSNWFIICezXU6YvZwODthfyplpjG0U36-T6juOcSL86Kl3fNVlXPWeIU9sfW5jbOo/w540-h640/Vogue_590_instructions0002.jpg" width="540" /></a></div><p>This printed pattern is unused.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicd9OBwTi_9JDZ9OohN9ps8rcoAzb9ti1C8nmYJQgpTlAek3yNcZZrAkfxhoazIuVYp1HWM2THZMdt1Dz51s_7Nv6riIScMWVOdxjPhCq4gNSZPdRlz-akD5NhsXbHg63gCccfoBBAAxSCMOcawsB0bj1zagimO0fmpI2jXRfCt90OCE_vNYZ83hWeNPo/s3386/Vogue_590_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2230" data-original-width="3386" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicd9OBwTi_9JDZ9OohN9ps8rcoAzb9ti1C8nmYJQgpTlAek3yNcZZrAkfxhoazIuVYp1HWM2THZMdt1Dz51s_7Nv6riIScMWVOdxjPhCq4gNSZPdRlz-akD5NhsXbHg63gCccfoBBAAxSCMOcawsB0bj1zagimO0fmpI2jXRfCt90OCE_vNYZ83hWeNPo/w640-h422/Vogue_590_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>(1) The best recent work on the history of the smock is Alison Toplis's <i>The Hidden History of the Smock Frock</i>. </p><p><br /></p>andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-66976018982009906362021-06-05T22:33:00.002-07:002023-07-19T10:48:16.068-07:00Patt-o-Rama 8500 - Apron and Bonnet<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnH3yetSDHGjEwJWX02x4DWCW6NhcPudBqamUN-AIdTdE9QyrCOPU7CsG4vk0_DzKld2EmkGVefVRG4Q4QMZRISHj-C8cjW5m-EeLjf5K3JFjv-9bjg1QiiJegYkPXU1eWUnXpEjFaWQ/s2008/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2008" data-original-width="1036" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnH3yetSDHGjEwJWX02x4DWCW6NhcPudBqamUN-AIdTdE9QyrCOPU7CsG4vk0_DzKld2EmkGVefVRG4Q4QMZRISHj-C8cjW5m-EeLjf5K3JFjv-9bjg1QiiJegYkPXU1eWUnXpEjFaWQ/w330-h640/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side1.jpg" width="330" /></a></div><br /><p>1961, based on this advertisement in the Benton Harbor Michigan News-Palladium on May 11, 1961. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjylrSGYU3xCIpOT4VDxkLF7Crp72I0yEX1K_rzvI0mt8z-SscnuWJ1PC2DjALEgGQOhJam6oDxuQ0ruwPDT4F_i8euWeohLibN7fWap0UIG2eHBBmCaIJbxrJQbNyMpT5RXCamyjQAaS0/s2609/clip_78997749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2609" data-original-width="582" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjylrSGYU3xCIpOT4VDxkLF7Crp72I0yEX1K_rzvI0mt8z-SscnuWJ1PC2DjALEgGQOhJam6oDxuQ0ruwPDT4F_i8euWeohLibN7fWap0UIG2eHBBmCaIJbxrJQbNyMpT5RXCamyjQAaS0/s16000/clip_78997749.jpg" /></a></div><p>The original mailing envelope has a return address for GRIT, a periodical for rural folks. The recipient's address includes a ZIP code, putting the mailing date some time after 1963, when ZIP codes were introduced.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIJb95qh_bD9iNggOjG3JqEkWDTG__Vtkxqe4phr70YDCKRF4aAlO6wZFhcFt8TomqPqN2CCWuJDZwRJ7KqaH3OE62UUe0fsLj-udsICxKfbJbBOanS2xZP542M1-Sk59Hlm6jfr96kI/s2738/patt_o_rama_8500_envelope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1176" data-original-width="2738" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIJb95qh_bD9iNggOjG3JqEkWDTG__Vtkxqe4phr70YDCKRF4aAlO6wZFhcFt8TomqPqN2CCWuJDZwRJ7KqaH3OE62UUe0fsLj-udsICxKfbJbBOanS2xZP542M1-Sk59Hlm6jfr96kI/w640-h274/patt_o_rama_8500_envelope.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Patt-o-Rama is another one of those syndicated house name patterns that are so hard to research. </p><p>Despite the "quaint old-fashioned charm," the writer still points out the functional reason for the bonnet - it shades your face. 1963 puts this bonnet pattern on the cusp of a transition from primarily functional to nostalgic or costume use. This pattern could well have served both uses. It's easy to imagine the bonnet and apron made up in red and white gingham and worn by all the ladies running booths at a church social or bazaar. Then again, this may have simply been the preferred headgear for an older woman who was accustomed to the style.</p><p>The Patt-o-rama brand is also at an interesting point in the history of unprinted patterns. By 1961 all of the big pattern companies were offering printed patterns. Patt-o-rama gamely reminds the maker that with their pattern, there are "no margins to trim," "no tracing wheels," and "no fabric waste." But again, an older woman would have grown up with unprinted patterns.</p><p>The apron pattern is entirely unremarkable (and about 10 years later, I'd make an almost identical apron in my first Home Ec class, in avocado green cotton-poly, if memory serves.)</p><p>But the bonnet was interesting. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Dfz9w7yg5X8F6pyLQZ-n1wcJpKL0Q9PvgmcR51XwfSKRBtEKlezVHI4TUEzDvAoKr4gNO6ArLd59S-rExn_0LUUMcwP9IIM1DDnhuOb_5Q2bNaidUNkz-WhiXVyCwjP74QtFhpFeigM/s1187/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side10001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1187" data-original-width="1098" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Dfz9w7yg5X8F6pyLQZ-n1wcJpKL0Q9PvgmcR51XwfSKRBtEKlezVHI4TUEzDvAoKr4gNO6ArLd59S-rExn_0LUUMcwP9IIM1DDnhuOb_5Q2bNaidUNkz-WhiXVyCwjP74QtFhpFeigM/w370-h400/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side10001.jpg" width="370" /></a></div><br /><p>Did sunbonnet styles change over time? How different was this bonnet from say, <a href="https://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2008/08/butterick-5340-sun-bonnet-for-ladies.html" target="_blank">Butterick 5340</a>, from the early part of the century? Superficially, not very different, as it turns out. The overall dimensions of the crowns are almost identical. The brim of the Patt-o-rama bonnet is shallower by about 1 1/2" (but still quite deep enough to completely shade the face - the illustration doesn't do justice to the depths of the brim.)</p><p>Interestingly, the Butterick bonnet confines the curtain to the back of the bonnet, while the Patt-o-rama bonnet brings the curtain across the bottom of the brim, to shade the sides of the neck.</p><p>The construction of the bonnets is a little different. The Butterick bonnet combines the crown and the curtain into a single piece, using a simple fold at neck level to create a casing for the back drawstring. </p><p>The Patt-o-rama bonnet has a separate piece for the curtain (piece J, which they call a ruffle) as well as for the drawstring casing (piece I.) Butterick assumes you'll have some narrow tape on hand to use as drawstrings. The Patto-o-rama pattern instructs you to cut and sew drawstring ties from narrow rectangles.</p><p>Patt-o-rama 8500 is a good quality pattern. The pieces are accurately cut and the notches and circles matched well. The written instructions contained a couple of slightly confusing typographical errors, and were a bit jumbled - probably from lack of space - but the construction illustrations were clear.</p><p>I made the bonnet up from some pink calico I had on hand. Chambray would provide a slightly sturdier bonnet.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyUJ5toAhFPlNAQhQQuZaphWWQ35kIKMdPwzCjVrwtiaB_DPN_8pDUZ6fsYMAQacfSxmyz6S8AiQUxY7Ezszus7Yv3_w9gCm1q-GABxlPBch5HwhaSQpgm7AldzXtZm62mBjeSlmGL5Y4/s3252/IMG_2547.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3252" data-original-width="2880" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyUJ5toAhFPlNAQhQQuZaphWWQ35kIKMdPwzCjVrwtiaB_DPN_8pDUZ6fsYMAQacfSxmyz6S8AiQUxY7Ezszus7Yv3_w9gCm1q-GABxlPBch5HwhaSQpgm7AldzXtZm62mBjeSlmGL5Y4/w566-h640/IMG_2547.HEIC" width="566" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82R0AsZjcXi8N4xI2lHwNqEvfR_OB2Nb3GlybpBXXFAwqY4rOeO1Ao7wVaXbVvo2dFz06N8VdjEwQa3KOPGPgHtpxDk6t3LF3F_t2CBrGtVgj98uBMmFwYX2YGm_uQ89pFIdF-leHFPA/s2895/IMG_2549.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="2555" data-original-width="2895" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82R0AsZjcXi8N4xI2lHwNqEvfR_OB2Nb3GlybpBXXFAwqY4rOeO1Ao7wVaXbVvo2dFz06N8VdjEwQa3KOPGPgHtpxDk6t3LF3F_t2CBrGtVgj98uBMmFwYX2YGm_uQ89pFIdF-leHFPA/w604-h532/IMG_2549.HEIC" width="604" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I followed the instructions almost exactly with only one exception - I bound the seam that joins the brim to the crown, both for tidiness and strength.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR22bB-y8Mex11yf6ipYXr7uPazNMh5VKho8IbQguZ_osFerIGzFJ8V3J3qgG3o3LeKaXy9uzzC-wX_lQlMw65_Pe2VcwKnouTElDt1I1UfyNz_lIuvtiIWtg_FdLx6GRZjg7QkqQfl74/s2939/IMG_2548.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2882" data-original-width="2939" height="628" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR22bB-y8Mex11yf6ipYXr7uPazNMh5VKho8IbQguZ_osFerIGzFJ8V3J3qgG3o3LeKaXy9uzzC-wX_lQlMw65_Pe2VcwKnouTElDt1I1UfyNz_lIuvtiIWtg_FdLx6GRZjg7QkqQfl74/w640-h628/IMG_2548.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKkWqxzqUoao_N-dIDMjRGKqSfXxcCV0WpVPUMFxhOUxR99vQCpUgRMC9hgoXKMmY8zDKYqPyh4JOqQUusU6EnE-eHokVrFhvlsDy5lD1ukHkrkkdKCxZUY-sNf19qb_bRkGv8DoMFRUk/s4032/IMG_2550.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKkWqxzqUoao_N-dIDMjRGKqSfXxcCV0WpVPUMFxhOUxR99vQCpUgRMC9hgoXKMmY8zDKYqPyh4JOqQUusU6EnE-eHokVrFhvlsDy5lD1ukHkrkkdKCxZUY-sNf19qb_bRkGv8DoMFRUk/w480-h640/IMG_2550.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismMbdGfHhZQzd30Q3a1tavEQ13e96lqksEM8NKiiIiQQNsxRoRgj34ZS5sicrV7hh5LscXgnt232Pyi1ZMfCTz680RP30kNLBnnUmww-o6cRibSRPTW0r-akWeP1G6Q4qMFn5IFC6BvI/s4974/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side10001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4974" data-original-width="3112" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismMbdGfHhZQzd30Q3a1tavEQ13e96lqksEM8NKiiIiQQNsxRoRgj34ZS5sicrV7hh5LscXgnt232Pyi1ZMfCTz680RP30kNLBnnUmww-o6cRibSRPTW0r-akWeP1G6Q4qMFn5IFC6BvI/w400-h640/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side10001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkWSNuomDGk73ZM8hADvFCe59yyn1gFfc3hHLj15AZEqdXgUDFUnFU34NeBPZECPq1lgLhn8xPYUpVJE58ZznZAdF_xJ8flvXCjtRkx2JO20aRl0QJdDQwWcMDwR5ug-DsFc1P8xivP1Q/s4974/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4974" data-original-width="3112" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkWSNuomDGk73ZM8hADvFCe59yyn1gFfc3hHLj15AZEqdXgUDFUnFU34NeBPZECPq1lgLhn8xPYUpVJE58ZznZAdF_xJ8flvXCjtRkx2JO20aRl0QJdDQwWcMDwR5ug-DsFc1P8xivP1Q/w400-h640/patt_o_rama_8500_instructions_side1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-53149158208870432232019-09-07T15:24:00.000-07:002019-09-07T15:38:04.832-07:00Weldons 120313 - Betsy Trotwood<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnsSm4PfHQ5oEUpLjki40FvEu3qpBlmdFThgqa86tdRbOB05QrCBi4D9cSPzzSV5xYSKQMP30aXt5nK77JvIPmNU_OG25Lm7Jad6BRLajjJTOcubuwHO7C3K13NkrF2tf3M5AKnen2Xk/s1600/weldon_120313_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="797" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnsSm4PfHQ5oEUpLjki40FvEu3qpBlmdFThgqa86tdRbOB05QrCBi4D9cSPzzSV5xYSKQMP30aXt5nK77JvIPmNU_OG25Lm7Jad6BRLajjJTOcubuwHO7C3K13NkrF2tf3M5AKnen2Xk/s640/weldon_120313_F.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
<br />
Late 1930s or early 1940s.<br />
<br />
<i>David Copperfield </i>is the first of Dickens's books that I listened to rather than read, and I found that 33 hours of the audiobook was a great distraction from the endless dark days of winter.<br />
<br />
Betsy Trotwood is one of my favorite of all of Dickens' characters, so I was intrigued to find this pattern for Betsy Trotwood (but Dickens spells it Betsey.)<br />
<br />
My provisional date of late 1930s is based in part on the design of the envelope and the illustration, but I also wonder if the 1935 film adaptation by George Cukor (starring Freddy Bartholomew as David and W.C. Fields as Mr. Micawber) spawned an interest in <i>David Copperfield</i>-themed fancy dress in the years following the release. I haven't been able to find evidence of a stage adaptation that might also have triggered Copperfield-mania.<br />
<br />
Serial publication of <i>David Copperfield</i> started in 1849, but when does take place? If you assume that it's partially auto-biographical, that sets the novel in the 1820s through the 1830s. I think that this is an awkward period for women's clothing, with the long sloping shoulder line leading to enormous sleeves - a difficult look for even a very well-proportioned woman to wear successfully.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwPSwRcAYhjkiLvXbYFZnnI36sTzy4wzLFzuGJhWFzOZu2_4WggUlrXc8EWjJN2IRqa0e3daDYRqvf4hgLTAGu_Aa3MJvk3QALMqIsV87w-BWy3tnIng6xmcuOwamyIJ23UzF7m4uy3sY/s1600/1830s_ladies_plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwPSwRcAYhjkiLvXbYFZnnI36sTzy4wzLFzuGJhWFzOZu2_4WggUlrXc8EWjJN2IRqa0e3daDYRqvf4hgLTAGu_Aa3MJvk3QALMqIsV87w-BWy3tnIng6xmcuOwamyIJ23UzF7m4uy3sY/s640/1830s_ladies_plate.jpg" width="472" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Edna May Oliver played Aunt Betsey in the 1935 film, and Dolly Tree, the costume designer, seems to borrow from the 1830s for the exuberant cap.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKi5BUj_gjjsLhp6tzhcPOvRI4v-FsaD4x1Uk0yj_RjG72MQmPy7QJmSvpVEMQ6amytOtKZzbkNhlAi6WXvKiGf708GV1XzMpJHuqnBNln-zPs8OGx7_q-16qhcGPuJ9jMlNrBXLvJAs/s1600/edna_may_Oliver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="383" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKi5BUj_gjjsLhp6tzhcPOvRI4v-FsaD4x1Uk0yj_RjG72MQmPy7QJmSvpVEMQ6amytOtKZzbkNhlAi6WXvKiGf708GV1XzMpJHuqnBNln-zPs8OGx7_q-16qhcGPuJ9jMlNrBXLvJAs/s640/edna_may_Oliver.jpg" width="490" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from <a href="http://www.oldhollywoodfilms.com/2015/04/supporting-players-edna-may-oliver.html">oldhollywoodfilms.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Weldons designer provides a basic gray or brown front buttoning, long-sleeved dress of no particular period and uses the white collar and cuffs, and the black sateen apron to evoke the 1830s. It's a little hard to tell from the illustration, but the pattern includes both a cap and a bonnet, although confusingly, the illustration seems to show the basic mob cap worn over the rather sketchy bonnet.<br />
<br />
Weldon's Betsy Trotwood carries a garden hod and trowel, a visual cue that this vaguely 19th century lady is the Aunt Betsy that David Copperfield surprised as she was working in her garden.<br />
<br />
This unprinted pattern does not appear to have been used, though it is water stained.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYzh4Y0SLkeVqrPzbi-6mfuqWjjZk70qzVK03xAjrJq7cWxg01ctHk3vh1YrDwNB9STmvLkAz1SXRJDawVlAe8_I3xmdX_LqJUN1Lndi_PFy2QaxAvujozYp2_UNHL0Sr6tT4QwTYaG3k/s1600/weldon_120313_instructions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="854" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYzh4Y0SLkeVqrPzbi-6mfuqWjjZk70qzVK03xAjrJq7cWxg01ctHk3vh1YrDwNB9STmvLkAz1SXRJDawVlAe8_I3xmdX_LqJUN1Lndi_PFy2QaxAvujozYp2_UNHL0Sr6tT4QwTYaG3k/s640/weldon_120313_instructions.jpg" width="340" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoYmE1E7RgVk4EiX2e4w5nyAxD9LDkqMMx1ewGibdphi3g2QNfsZSkWQvogbJnf4DJfFW3uGiZ_HvyldxvfnbItwRP8zKt4D9tfxrfcT3HLPQTY3MOrRJYtZdzrkVp5L2DlYimkV9rkrg/s1600/weldon_120313_instructions_p2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="854" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoYmE1E7RgVk4EiX2e4w5nyAxD9LDkqMMx1ewGibdphi3g2QNfsZSkWQvogbJnf4DJfFW3uGiZ_HvyldxvfnbItwRP8zKt4D9tfxrfcT3HLPQTY3MOrRJYtZdzrkVp5L2DlYimkV9rkrg/s640/weldon_120313_instructions_p2.jpg" width="340" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoT9V1KPDFtkGOF-3zLfzvuKXKzZC0P0hjkbafE0kUeZ-tTDv6KdvBwb5qmBNYd27PeLMS4O-elXXszGKcz2vHztpMQDIHKtioNXogTvoE2BdWPxFYmgnS8bL-h6qhe40XyOVQyw0Zcc/s1600/weldon_120313_B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="809" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoT9V1KPDFtkGOF-3zLfzvuKXKzZC0P0hjkbafE0kUeZ-tTDv6KdvBwb5qmBNYd27PeLMS4O-elXXszGKcz2vHztpMQDIHKtioNXogTvoE2BdWPxFYmgnS8bL-h6qhe40XyOVQyw0Zcc/s640/weldon_120313_B.jpg" width="322" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-88594833360211275212019-07-04T00:00:00.000-07:002019-07-04T00:00:12.804-07:00Vogue 1468 - Bicentennial Dresses<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofmh1eimK9iub1ytXHeEB8O1zigOq0XzIdqRNXMsxZXSycDymTeezzD2nSfl87D21IojhH3ruXZdsMyfSrOtJmySZv6bimo5hCUzdfrX5VTWV2778n3hAKPUb7xDmEtaKSnRhdetgbGw/s1600/Vogue_1468_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1247" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofmh1eimK9iub1ytXHeEB8O1zigOq0XzIdqRNXMsxZXSycDymTeezzD2nSfl87D21IojhH3ruXZdsMyfSrOtJmySZv6bimo5hCUzdfrX5VTWV2778n3hAKPUb7xDmEtaKSnRhdetgbGw/s640/Vogue_1468_f.jpg" width="498" /></a></div>
<br />
1976<br />
<br />
There is a little bit to unpack here, starting with how I did, then didn't, then finally did acquire my copy of this pattern.<br />
<br />
I'd been watching for this pattern for several years before a copy finally came up for auction on eBay at a price I felt was reasonable. I placed my bid and won. And then I waited. After about a week, the seller contacted me and apologized. She'd gotten her wires crossed and sent my pattern to the winning bidder of a different pattern. This person was so enchanted with this pattern that she hadn't bid on that she refused to return it. So, the seller returned my money and I was back to watching, watching, watching.<br />
<br />
The irony is that in my personal opinion this is by far the ugliest of the Bicentennial costume patterns out there. Even the patterns sold in the newspapers tried a <i>little</i> harder than the Vogue design team responsible for this one.<br />
<br />
Back in 1976, the pattern companies really didn't have historical patterns of the caliber of the best patterns that are available today. They offered costume patterns with varying levels of historical accuracy. Typically designed for use in local pageants, parades, or theater productions, the designers had to meet the needs of people with limited time and budget, and possibly only basic sewing skills. <br />
<br />
In a sort of perfect storm of awfulness, 1976 was period when 100% cotton or linen fabrics were hard to find, with local fabric stores selling mostly polyester blends. If you think this was deadly for the ladies' costumes, talk to gentlemen who marched in the stifling heat of July 4th parades in bright red 100% polyester broadcloth coats. (A few years earlier, in 1961, some of these same gentlemen probably sweated through dark blue or grey polyester broadcloth as they commemorated the Civil War. It's my belief that these experiences helped spur the research into greater historical accuracy that continues to this day.)<br />
<br />
But in 1976, every town was going to celebrate the Bicentennial and by gum, we were going to dress the part, whatever vaguely historical part that was.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZeaPPN6XO6IEJdcMyC8VsHWEKRXCxXN6lOHo8Ff-5lPNABlBxKTQGOM0uPm73zw9rgf1FmMemtwbPdj0Qr_Ya_IeGdpb0wYAI2MKiTkZslN8IaLtkkTqd-L3JFya8ADe8FCgYSmenNM/s1600/Vogue_1468_inside_illustration02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1295" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZeaPPN6XO6IEJdcMyC8VsHWEKRXCxXN6lOHo8Ff-5lPNABlBxKTQGOM0uPm73zw9rgf1FmMemtwbPdj0Qr_Ya_IeGdpb0wYAI2MKiTkZslN8IaLtkkTqd-L3JFya8ADe8FCgYSmenNM/s640/Vogue_1468_inside_illustration02.jpg" width="518" /></a></div>
<br />
The Vogue design team seems to have checked boxes for "mob cap" and "fichu" and "square neck" and then gone out for a long lunch. On the way back to the office they must have seen a Laura Ashley dress and decided that was <i>that</i>. Even one of the interior illustrations evokes the Edwardian sensibility so central to Ashley's designs.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPi1j2tWTY_21gEq9fkDjVdpMyEHJnSE1oIr9fQbUAm-yKBQ0Zy4qUdlglIFomwdPgajqXvUnwWVk3P_7TDMF6EV_FAIpLYnbUypI2ay0-bYe35_MxBE6OM57UkF-jw7qP15sJP7Q5eZQ/s1600/Vogue_1468_inside_illustration.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1571" data-original-width="1022" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPi1j2tWTY_21gEq9fkDjVdpMyEHJnSE1oIr9fQbUAm-yKBQ0Zy4qUdlglIFomwdPgajqXvUnwWVk3P_7TDMF6EV_FAIpLYnbUypI2ay0-bYe35_MxBE6OM57UkF-jw7qP15sJP7Q5eZQ/s640/Vogue_1468_inside_illustration.jpg" width="416" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This printed pattern is unused.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5F0A4JaykOEltA0mO4U3sUaKerXAKTXpiW_navd9vmwdlDaSK2MBH9RJX0WKEY2Lq0ypKvGc9PDxX4z-SG3LhL2UI8IuxQqZI7o0Wyz_iLB8bRFtOCyQqHv-hr75xXnvCSOC1Us1F1w/s1600/Vogue_1468_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1247" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5F0A4JaykOEltA0mO4U3sUaKerXAKTXpiW_navd9vmwdlDaSK2MBH9RJX0WKEY2Lq0ypKvGc9PDxX4z-SG3LhL2UI8IuxQqZI7o0Wyz_iLB8bRFtOCyQqHv-hr75xXnvCSOC1Us1F1w/s640/Vogue_1468_b.jpg" width="498" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-67890041568262934992019-05-12T00:00:00.002-07:002023-05-05T10:16:27.307-07:00Superior 39P1105 - Ladies Maternity Apron Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12TbSUJtPohG2N2NVi5KgB6nXzwOO4Cq9_BhfH9IL5Bq8lrgpm_wMQFkXDuFOJYdTjpTEdsRVM3-BKUvDkvAXv5suVdqbnojxxdwB8dV5dU5pJLKpNWpy9Yqv5A-MrXO1jKWpEDmu89c/s1600/Superior_39P1105.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="953" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12TbSUJtPohG2N2NVi5KgB6nXzwOO4Cq9_BhfH9IL5Bq8lrgpm_wMQFkXDuFOJYdTjpTEdsRVM3-BKUvDkvAXv5suVdqbnojxxdwB8dV5dU5pJLKpNWpy9Yqv5A-MrXO1jKWpEDmu89c/s640/Superior_39P1105.jpg" width="380" /></a></div>
<br />Latter part of the nineteen-teens. It's a little unusual at this early date to see a pattern described explicitly as maternity wear. One suspects, though, that many patterns blandly described as wrappers, Mother Hubbards, smocks, and bungalow aprons did service as maternity clothes. Superior is the house brand of sewing patterns for Sears and Roebuck, and bless them for being very clear about the purpose of this garment, as well as offering it in larger sizes - up to 42" bust, in this case.<br />
<br />
At about the same time, the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences cautions against making maternity wear that "serves to emphasize this condition because of the special, and perhaps unusual features it embodies." The author goes on to recommend developing maternity wear "almost entirely from one kind of material, the contrast being provided merely by a collar..." Lengthwise lines from shoulder to hem are recommended to help draw attention away from the widening mid section.<br />
<br />
The Superior designer seems to have had much of this advice in mind. This is a thoughtful, practical design that isn't too much different from other apron dresses of the period. The box pleats front and back add needed girth. The elbow length sleeves are ideal for a working garment, and the square neck and contrast trim are an economical, stylish touch.<br />
<br />
Although the envelope is rough, the unprinted pattern pieces are in very good condition.<br />
<br />
Happy Mothers' Day.andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-1843534659981816762018-12-31T13:16:00.000-08:002018-12-31T13:16:12.523-08:00McCall's 3009 - Snowmobile Suit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrr2vndkFnPodBxd9Lx1vsGmGevcQgRTH-lEPbhiUJrMAwVsRrtAeshQRg9_4L4HcEhvpwHoeRaC2FVSVOqSvYedOqcdkWJ5bVqrV5G4eN0YTJZ1LAVdcUUGsMMuNw80ZwIa1l7KB-gMs/s1600/McCall_3009f.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1279" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrr2vndkFnPodBxd9Lx1vsGmGevcQgRTH-lEPbhiUJrMAwVsRrtAeshQRg9_4L4HcEhvpwHoeRaC2FVSVOqSvYedOqcdkWJ5bVqrV5G4eN0YTJZ1LAVdcUUGsMMuNw80ZwIa1l7KB-gMs/s640/McCall_3009f.jpeg" width="508" /></a></div>
<br />
1971<br />
It's getting to be that time of year. A deep snow pack is developing and the ponds and lakes are beginning to develop good thick ice. For the vintage snowmobile enthusiast, this may be the best way to complete your look. If you get a crack on, you can get your entire family kitted out (in maybe matching!) vintage snowmobile suits.<br />
<br />
Notice the groovy two-color version B, shown only on the back of the envelope.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1q5wbnic2iPkb8_y0Eg3QM3T2wxIibs6ZxGXGJ-D-tXtnshlec58ev7FXFki0wLcxINxp_oOsVzSsY0A5p5e_NQlUSZD0ZE9syAZbTWvdhCGyvLj2aMCH3UE8096teR3H2IGMVvvtdfc/s1600/McCall_3009b.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1354" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1q5wbnic2iPkb8_y0Eg3QM3T2wxIibs6ZxGXGJ-D-tXtnshlec58ev7FXFki0wLcxINxp_oOsVzSsY0A5p5e_NQlUSZD0ZE9syAZbTWvdhCGyvLj2aMCH3UE8096teR3H2IGMVvvtdfc/s640/McCall_3009b.jpeg" width="540" /></a></div>
<br />
I had to look up one of the recommended fabrics - Cire, or more properly, Ciré, is one of the family of fabrics with a hard, shiny surface finish. Traditionally achieved with wax, heat, and pressure, by the time this pattern was printed ciré finish fabrics were beginning to be available in synthetic fibers.<br />
<br />
Here's what snowmobiling looked like in 1971, when the price of Ski-doo's elan model would just about cover the cost of today's snowmobile suit.<br />
<br />
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DLXwnPMbivE" width="560"></iframe>andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-63390582270449013272018-12-18T20:28:00.001-08:002018-12-18T20:28:25.388-08:00McCall 7432 - "Mary Poppins" Stuffed Doll with Nanny Costume<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTx1FEoozso32VCfrkuzCiSS2BIK0a2dnZh6S3M-ks0PqT-XpTxLrxHrK27_DUzArTSYYt1aG-ULlRHpgkP61-s1Ahw-Flh73gko2oyFRDk1bbFivYSfNq7ZewwDHYpkR4wpE8BTwhYU/s1600/McCall_7432_F.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1304" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTx1FEoozso32VCfrkuzCiSS2BIK0a2dnZh6S3M-ks0PqT-XpTxLrxHrK27_DUzArTSYYt1aG-ULlRHpgkP61-s1Ahw-Flh73gko2oyFRDk1bbFivYSfNq7ZewwDHYpkR4wpE8BTwhYU/s640/McCall_7432_F.jpeg" width="520" /></a></div>
<br />
1964. Although I concentrate my collecting on the more utilitarian patterns, I'm intrigued by patterns produced as marketing tie-ins, so a few have made their way into the archives.<br />
<br />
This one resonates for me because I remember seeing the film during its original theatrical release. In my cohort of seven year olds, we knew <i>all</i> the songs and staged our own versions of the story in our back yards and wished we had picture hats and frilly white umbrellas. The "Nanny Costume" is iconic, but I've always wondered why there wasn't also a pattern for the garden party dress.<br />
<br />
Making dolls and their wardrobes is fussy work. Look at all the steps just to make the carpet bag.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAB2TsNNWCh4o7uUxfDVk3MyVBAjKnGesRWaO0ijf3fAcpSC6HfF4xyky7DN_hV-JxKLgci37_m96LXJKmfx5OjAQX42wDlj0Kb4MaU5z2w4jtR4cdDtzlm1FBc_pdD99AeVA6GQ1aGgE/s1600/McCall_7432__instructions.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1265" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAB2TsNNWCh4o7uUxfDVk3MyVBAjKnGesRWaO0ijf3fAcpSC6HfF4xyky7DN_hV-JxKLgci37_m96LXJKmfx5OjAQX42wDlj0Kb4MaU5z2w4jtR4cdDtzlm1FBc_pdD99AeVA6GQ1aGgE/s640/McCall_7432__instructions.jpeg" width="504" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This printed pattern is unused.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7fwxOnFDS-AmKLk9zQxj3OlVszPt2PVn2NBJM23odEGfcrWizpKXryGXTmectgRiXTuPFFXh9vHA_6qzZygzDMf2HnwRPO4wEQCJ-MUSZtlz1MZVmD5hQ02jOwG5-eebkJfFyYSaC2A/s1600/McCall_7432_B.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1297" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7fwxOnFDS-AmKLk9zQxj3OlVszPt2PVn2NBJM23odEGfcrWizpKXryGXTmectgRiXTuPFFXh9vHA_6qzZygzDMf2HnwRPO4wEQCJ-MUSZtlz1MZVmD5hQ02jOwG5-eebkJfFyYSaC2A/s640/McCall_7432_B.jpeg" width="518" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-23923438985500996342018-07-04T00:00:00.000-07:002018-07-04T00:00:00.131-07:00Simplicity 7099 - Boy's Colonial Costume<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSQBo8ZOB9lesbR8clMBs6OfnTQYlYvuGvYnrj4A4mnvhAzT0PIolhNlUFwlrQLMXaoBbMSAigcDcuqvggewnZFGcQEHFS7z2g0W1fKqsNNyFnkHmW4YiVwA27WfPefFX4ChsSCkjeRs/s1600/simplicity_7099_f.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1025" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSQBo8ZOB9lesbR8clMBs6OfnTQYlYvuGvYnrj4A4mnvhAzT0PIolhNlUFwlrQLMXaoBbMSAigcDcuqvggewnZFGcQEHFS7z2g0W1fKqsNNyFnkHmW4YiVwA27WfPefFX4ChsSCkjeRs/s640/simplicity_7099_f.jpeg" width="408" /></a></div>
<br />
1938, based on the cinema listings in a cutout from a newspaper folded in with the pattern pieces (<i>Snow White and the Seven Dwarves </i>was playing at the Melba, children 20 cents all times.)<br />
<br />
Independence Day is always a good time to get your Colonial on. There is something sort of uproarious about providing the 9d price in the British Isles. Perhaps if you squint <i>really hard</i>, the instruction sheet says "George III," not "George Washington"<br />
<br />
Size 6 is for a little tyke, and won't he look splendid riding on the fire engine in the July 4th parade? That is, if Mama managed to work her way through the tiny instruction sheet and the half inch seam allowances.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83KMNX_Kyy-0cZ7YXaEbNLR0vNdQZXNojm2J3884nKAa8FeMPZfaMuqp2ZpRAKqaxeCZ7zsjQeKk7Hmq4CsDW3CJ7q2175KtkW1cnbvs03V4TjO8NliaONliYk7hQ4AJpK-1NfIA4qS4/s1600/simplicity_7099_instructions_straightened.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1042" data-original-width="1600" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83KMNX_Kyy-0cZ7YXaEbNLR0vNdQZXNojm2J3884nKAa8FeMPZfaMuqp2ZpRAKqaxeCZ7zsjQeKk7Hmq4CsDW3CJ7q2175KtkW1cnbvs03V4TjO8NliaONliYk7hQ4AJpK-1NfIA4qS4/s640/simplicity_7099_instructions_straightened.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3xyFYgehzGpQwPaC_65JNAIHWese-q7uFTpacy-yxhIPJmGHJwcps6Y46F7xJB8T8aLYtyqPoLhyphenhyphen3EMUVFgGHgUHPsWB9ZHWvWYrgjpSZrwLn2CjAxc-36N70aRqtBSaOXct_kC_xaWU/s1600/simplicity_7099_b.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1011" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3xyFYgehzGpQwPaC_65JNAIHWese-q7uFTpacy-yxhIPJmGHJwcps6Y46F7xJB8T8aLYtyqPoLhyphenhyphen3EMUVFgGHgUHPsWB9ZHWvWYrgjpSZrwLn2CjAxc-36N70aRqtBSaOXct_kC_xaWU/s640/simplicity_7099_b.jpeg" width="404" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Have a safe and happy Independence Day, everybody!</div>
<span id="goog_51898937"></span><span id="goog_51898938"></span><br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-78631096041229303142018-06-21T12:11:00.000-07:002018-06-21T12:11:45.573-07:00McCall 3298 - Men's Overalls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIynC4PhVIOvDojtjhrviEKpRG2bOKAPM0WVxWVYpVvpoRZIkSmnodRzIc0oIe5Ix9b4DIUN-AiuEWaNSXHqwqLP0nWwij1Oo9FtoWlgFbDhInLKG2hzgIYRdnwnMIORaNfnKnCLsZyk0/s1600/McCall_3298_f.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1343" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIynC4PhVIOvDojtjhrviEKpRG2bOKAPM0WVxWVYpVvpoRZIkSmnodRzIc0oIe5Ix9b4DIUN-AiuEWaNSXHqwqLP0nWwij1Oo9FtoWlgFbDhInLKG2hzgIYRdnwnMIORaNfnKnCLsZyk0/s640/McCall_3298_f.jpeg" width="536" /></a></div>
<br />
1920s. <br />
<br />
A nice basic bib-and-braces overalls pattern for the gentleman. More research needs to be done into household management in order to understand the decision to make overalls rather than buy them.<br />
<br />
And if you were struggling to decide whether to make these up in hickory cloth or denim (or perhaps white duck if the gentleman is a house painter,) McCall's helpfully offers...stripes or checks!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirERMOk87o_qgbUQROualagt7_9GC8S_I9lepxY4VztQ2bRIwAeAzHBXKh8HnMC8B0OQgvw6e6nHG9XrDouAHme7hb7w6MrLLzhCr-89d4pRpE6aY2q8kKaXt5LheduCyxtIKVMLYQYN4/s1600/McCall_3298_developments_straightened.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1480" data-original-width="1600" height="592" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirERMOk87o_qgbUQROualagt7_9GC8S_I9lepxY4VztQ2bRIwAeAzHBXKh8HnMC8B0OQgvw6e6nHG9XrDouAHme7hb7w6MrLLzhCr-89d4pRpE6aY2q8kKaXt5LheduCyxtIKVMLYQYN4/s640/McCall_3298_developments_straightened.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Whether or not this pattern has been used is a little difficult to interpret. When I opened out the pattern pieces I discovered that the only pieces that had been cut were the front, the back, and the large pocket. Further, the front and back had been cut only down to about thigh-level.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmJApWqz51wK1eUxGzxCF91XjHL3_SriUU7aOw1mlshLi3jo08II7J33I2vZgRTUqJwJ0NTOn7Cg6zTGJHQAvxPeZc3eqh27DJUMu1aYdKSuoM6CZFdmAkN6lV4rO3ql7eQ43QrHdX-E/s1600/mcCall_3298_cut_pieces.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1127" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmJApWqz51wK1eUxGzxCF91XjHL3_SriUU7aOw1mlshLi3jo08II7J33I2vZgRTUqJwJ0NTOn7Cg6zTGJHQAvxPeZc3eqh27DJUMu1aYdKSuoM6CZFdmAkN6lV4rO3ql7eQ43QrHdX-E/s640/mcCall_3298_cut_pieces.JPG" width="450" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
What's going on here? One idea that occurs to me is that this overalls pattern was used to make a bib apron. I haven't yet found home sewing patterns for men's bib aprons as early as the 1920s, but butchers' and machinists' aprons do show up in the mail order catalogs of the period. If this was the case here, my guess is that the inseams probably weren't cut in the fabric and the maker just dropped a line straight down. But it's curious that the shoulder strap piece wasn't cut.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oH2xJjux8AydT0fdhJZPbQgtU0nBv7HT6wNOkPZyHSge1XBKTktwDlEBy7u7YazF0Em14h0yR5ryGJOZ2pCZFfxpnRw5OHuOMxIt2lTkxWs4ugY5cRfzngfD6UK1zkoZbV9giUSgAtw/s1600/McCall_3298_layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1454" data-original-width="1600" height="580" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oH2xJjux8AydT0fdhJZPbQgtU0nBv7HT6wNOkPZyHSge1XBKTktwDlEBy7u7YazF0Em14h0yR5ryGJOZ2pCZFfxpnRw5OHuOMxIt2lTkxWs4ugY5cRfzngfD6UK1zkoZbV9giUSgAtw/s640/McCall_3298_layout.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-8885804949342717192017-10-31T00:00:00.000-07:002017-10-31T00:00:28.714-07:00Vogue 3578 - Cat Costume<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUh4o0D5XMmwPKXPhb0WJ2ZPscZ2uR1Dkx3lLOvveLBCUaSUh8OMLzZEjNPj0b2JgHQ0cPOs0Lp8VOakHqg7Eu8Zx68A0AsQO0SC21BXHlOlgwemjs08b3jZJvwV0ysiBnD8VSxWtz5Lg/s1600/Vogue_2578_F.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1022" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUh4o0D5XMmwPKXPhb0WJ2ZPscZ2uR1Dkx3lLOvveLBCUaSUh8OMLzZEjNPj0b2JgHQ0cPOs0Lp8VOakHqg7Eu8Zx68A0AsQO0SC21BXHlOlgwemjs08b3jZJvwV0ysiBnD8VSxWtz5Lg/s640/Vogue_2578_F.jpeg" width="408" /></a></div>
<br />
Late 1920s.<br />
<br />
These early Vogue patterns are scarce, but they do show up now and again. According to <a href="https://butterick.mccall.com/our-company/butterick-history" target="_blank">Butterick's corporate history</a>, by the 1920s, each <i>Vogue Pattern Book</i> (published six times per year,) featured over 350 patterns. Although we tend to think of Vogue as a high-end pattern brand, from the beginning they offered a full range of patterns, including underclothes, utilitarian patterns for garments like <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2009/11/vogue-5770-womens-smock.html" target="_blank">smocks</a>, and costume patterns for both adults and children.<br />
<br />
Pencil marks on the layout diagram show that the maker was carefully keeping track of the pattern pieces. No fabric recommendations are given, but the illustration hints at a fuzzy fabric - inexpensive cotton flannel would no doubt do for the budget-conscious.<br />
<br />
I particularly like the mitts that finish the look.<br />
<br />
Of course this would be a fine Halloween costume, but also consider that Wanda Gag's <i>Millions of Cats </i>was published in 1928. Imagine if you will, an entire second grade class dressed as cats for a school pageant adaptation! (What could <i>possibly</i> go wrong?)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrmEpIJnA-q7RzZmtwHPoeMyPm2wTfhrI-N5NBSPKksU_x4ohXTx3BLvnr3lglMZpmZclni3BYGxsX9kn4e51NJHJig9ogLfofbLuVz461-xY3mSRf4FhiSHTqfifgiW7qWzPuln_53o/s1600/Vogue_2578_B.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1202" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrmEpIJnA-q7RzZmtwHPoeMyPm2wTfhrI-N5NBSPKksU_x4ohXTx3BLvnr3lglMZpmZclni3BYGxsX9kn4e51NJHJig9ogLfofbLuVz461-xY3mSRf4FhiSHTqfifgiW7qWzPuln_53o/s640/Vogue_2578_B.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-69443542237844233922017-08-07T19:58:00.000-07:002017-08-07T19:58:10.891-07:00Simplicity 4683 - Men's, Boys' and Women's Apron<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDHaXFKtCiW22mUbPehfgidJtMaLH-_7q5Ebix7p0YLajNPWCNAsQB5aWjE4gqsDavKvx-gjuKPnaQkdgiQzZ81cs6iLPgPTOsyHfhw4iODeocpUXyUnK0FoNqR7fpqIfk62eLydRf5y4/s1600/simplicity_4683_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDHaXFKtCiW22mUbPehfgidJtMaLH-_7q5Ebix7p0YLajNPWCNAsQB5aWjE4gqsDavKvx-gjuKPnaQkdgiQzZ81cs6iLPgPTOsyHfhw4iODeocpUXyUnK0FoNqR7fpqIfk62eLydRf5y4/s640/simplicity_4683_f.jpg" width="436" /></a></div>
<br />
Mid 1940s.<br />
<br />
This unprinted pattern dates to before 1946, as this is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pattern_(sewing)">apparently</a> when Simplicity started printing their patterns.<br />
<br />
A nice, straightforward apron for the Gentleman and his Missus, who has also made Buddy a spiffy apron for his first Industrial Arts class. Why the illustrator chose to show the Gentleman wearing a shop apron but gearing up for kitchen duty is a bit of mystery. And that tiny little cookbook he's holding seems to be awfully entertaining.<br />
<br />
Your fifteen cents really bought you a good, thoughtful design. Note that the Men's and Boys apron is darted at the sides. This will make the apron set close through the hips, which will probably make it safer by making it less likely to snag, and should also make it more efficient at keeping the wearer clean.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pVNomcY5J2YjtyHg11KX1RaRRIwV9o9jmGmJF-ol2LLV9gGpOB9QCK_B4jP4M7HSRGrl4-3tzqMhePeWD-GKhmAXnl96K34trJvq5imJ8KNMTzSeB20SwG1x_abJFBygGPzq-KnONn8/s1600/simplicity_4683_instructions_darts_close.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pVNomcY5J2YjtyHg11KX1RaRRIwV9o9jmGmJF-ol2LLV9gGpOB9QCK_B4jP4M7HSRGrl4-3tzqMhePeWD-GKhmAXnl96K34trJvq5imJ8KNMTzSeB20SwG1x_abJFBygGPzq-KnONn8/s640/simplicity_4683_instructions_darts_close.jpg" width="464" /></a></div>
<br />
The handling of the shoulder straps and ties is clever. The straps will adjust to almost any size or shape and don't require any hardware to fasten:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9Nf5CoRr0P3AZkQRnQ7jKLvEDKANge16EZATL8PyeLWBd1-mT7EhaST284tq6gW_mSYDVJ-W3Jy_cqFWHk6tnlA2Dgvbjfoks-jnP1mvvNtauDC7nOdnLOEJTw7HpWqaafvBuDdyG3A/s1600/simplicity_4683_instructions_close.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9Nf5CoRr0P3AZkQRnQ7jKLvEDKANge16EZATL8PyeLWBd1-mT7EhaST284tq6gW_mSYDVJ-W3Jy_cqFWHk6tnlA2Dgvbjfoks-jnP1mvvNtauDC7nOdnLOEJTw7HpWqaafvBuDdyG3A/s640/simplicity_4683_instructions_close.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Note that the topstitching around the pockets and the edges make this a very sturdy garment.<br />
<br />
No fabric recommendations are given, but the aprons in the illustration surely look like chambray. Denim would also have been popular, and frequently came in the 35" width called out in the yardage requirements.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9thMmVSaEJFSnQAR41UzfrBs6U5EsSpYaXF_JSKPJOtMXamo_ux696C7aq1WCGosfSjk7hi8AsvWJAT99ILIl6b6sJD9cOHBG4V6JANsC595GNUFd_aTLjvHlKsLDYtKgm14zxRoazUE/s1600/simplicity_4683_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9thMmVSaEJFSnQAR41UzfrBs6U5EsSpYaXF_JSKPJOtMXamo_ux696C7aq1WCGosfSjk7hi8AsvWJAT99ILIl6b6sJD9cOHBG4V6JANsC595GNUFd_aTLjvHlKsLDYtKgm14zxRoazUE/s640/simplicity_4683_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here is the men's apron made up in denim:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7WqWHsgM77t4bK4E2vM83d9rhTUa2VHX_LklPHuEIi-uSWwBIGvbnWxqv-TnDvxQV7-fcW3zp3dNexxzEbx_30dfhDJuqP4fQMUFSu6z5CTRvUEerIw65lhnlUUlMUY-dDo1QeVZ2_98/s1600/simplicity_4683_mens_made_up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7WqWHsgM77t4bK4E2vM83d9rhTUa2VHX_LklPHuEIi-uSWwBIGvbnWxqv-TnDvxQV7-fcW3zp3dNexxzEbx_30dfhDJuqP4fQMUFSu6z5CTRvUEerIw65lhnlUUlMUY-dDo1QeVZ2_98/s640/simplicity_4683_mens_made_up.jpg" width="634" /></a></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here are the side darts from the inside:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVhBrQ6mvG08n0TxCRBvw444wnDcQFTJ3zffvM8HoIU8Slbz2iZMkgR1tfUoV77mLa18zBj07tHJGpNvF4UZlqSD4rvrRsThJm675DHz9LEUCjriDTkxcUT-kKTyo3N7j2UqMKWdAvXjg/s1600/simplicity_4683_darts_inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVhBrQ6mvG08n0TxCRBvw444wnDcQFTJ3zffvM8HoIU8Slbz2iZMkgR1tfUoV77mLa18zBj07tHJGpNvF4UZlqSD4rvrRsThJm675DHz9LEUCjriDTkxcUT-kKTyo3N7j2UqMKWdAvXjg/s640/simplicity_4683_darts_inside.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And here they are from the outside:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmWQNGd1yr_ARGIRKqjWAElC3BH7ztDWvSHfmkjKROuDHTjb9fAAPjEZpbEhuoRImWItjz9ze3tTLMijf8B_A2uamKbEyo3mT46aveM-NnoKMOzw45uqd4lsWrIpUL8285FLcSx6xisA/s1600/simplicity_4683_darts_outside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmWQNGd1yr_ARGIRKqjWAElC3BH7ztDWvSHfmkjKROuDHTjb9fAAPjEZpbEhuoRImWItjz9ze3tTLMijf8B_A2uamKbEyo3mT46aveM-NnoKMOzw45uqd4lsWrIpUL8285FLcSx6xisA/s640/simplicity_4683_darts_outside.jpg" width="550" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The instructions call for a small patch of fabric to be sewn in as a backing for the button holes on the sides. You can see that I've sewn down the patch and stitched a rectangle to outline the buttonhole. The button holes were worked by hand.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-OM1Fhw8pm_J2vSKrWub30o9OSFeY7lAp2NwyVWIm8C_y7x5DUseCxn5REFRWKc2JLmWUrOQXCecdKCAim-VvKxvLFmhIUL9alSJnYfskxlQ6yt5ALc3W_vXcqIggUNvFOWInvxIs9DA/s1600/simplicity_4683_button_hole_reinforcement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-OM1Fhw8pm_J2vSKrWub30o9OSFeY7lAp2NwyVWIm8C_y7x5DUseCxn5REFRWKc2JLmWUrOQXCecdKCAim-VvKxvLFmhIUL9alSJnYfskxlQ6yt5ALc3W_vXcqIggUNvFOWInvxIs9DA/s640/simplicity_4683_button_hole_reinforcement.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And in the event this apron ever wanders away, I've "branded" it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib5M0i0grK-knEdAR3LG1Yr_4_aj3ssti-fdCpO_E1aOjbJRQirDqQcJF6tw7sJfYU8lVVwj4VzWeh-m2J5Kq2JlP3dBjHnx8WTtgtXW97k_LMoQoF00WTUMGM5-yK8h6-TkPGIBAQexg/s1600/simplicity_4683_pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib5M0i0grK-knEdAR3LG1Yr_4_aj3ssti-fdCpO_E1aOjbJRQirDqQcJF6tw7sJfYU8lVVwj4VzWeh-m2J5Kq2JlP3dBjHnx8WTtgtXW97k_LMoQoF00WTUMGM5-yK8h6-TkPGIBAQexg/s640/simplicity_4683_pocket.jpg" width="620" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the future, I'd probably use a good-quality twill tape for the straps, rather than making them myself, since folding those narrow strips of denim resulted in a certain amount of questionable language as I repeatedly steamed my fingers.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This denim is wonderful to work with. Made under the <a href="http://www.safedenim.com/default.aspx">SAFEDenim</a> brand, it's made entirely in the United States by farmers who are trying to produce a sustainable product. Cotton is demanding of the soil and can require enormous amounts of pesticides, so producing this denim requires a lot of commitment from the farmers. I don't know where you can buy yard goods, but if you're willing to commit to a 30 yard bolt, you can buy it from the web site.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
You can get a <a href="http://www.jamesthompson.com/resources/projects/view/Man's_Denim_Apron">free pattern</a> for a very similar apron from the James Thompson web site, makers of my preferred pillow ticking. (This apron would also look great made up in ticking.)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm delighted to report that Simplicity has re-issued this pattern as <b>Simplicity 8151</b>. Get yours now before it goes out of print again!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Originally posted on June 8, 2011. Additional material added to show the men's apron made up. Additional information provided on the re-print.</span></i></div>
andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-90925329175617446612016-10-05T12:16:00.000-07:002016-10-05T12:16:03.648-07:00May Manton 1015 - Design for embroidering a case for rubber over shoes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirC2Cbvf-HTmg2Gx_i5DA84Try5mh_EedC4xhrjqhk4DpHvUiqj7Pv8YsqczdgHbHM30Ckke73e2wDDxwiJVLeJBqeRoadGSuEL6FOsx5TUdWpAVtQhV_poSQQtrUC0DwPqGdF_YVA8Os/s1600/manton_1015_f.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirC2Cbvf-HTmg2Gx_i5DA84Try5mh_EedC4xhrjqhk4DpHvUiqj7Pv8YsqczdgHbHM30Ckke73e2wDDxwiJVLeJBqeRoadGSuEL6FOsx5TUdWpAVtQhV_poSQQtrUC0DwPqGdF_YVA8Os/s640/manton_1015_f.jpeg" width="282" /></a></div>
19-teens.<br />
<br />
Another entry for the Pointless Handwork category. As the autumn rains have started here, my mind turns to keeping my feet dry. I don't possess overshoes, but if I did, I <i>might</i> make up and embroider a case for them.<br />
<br />
It's not too late to make up a few rubber over shoes cases for Christmas giving. Astonish your friends and family with your thoughtfulness and stubborn disregard for reality.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5LeAlZBDZBw9cVZI2B1Ixlc-0CVWEOxDhv40SmRFZpeHPRiMLoTVa1m5oDC77Rgy8pI4W9xWYM1cjuDtO0nkf7Ub0wV7G3CPB38ZA_u7pC9GVSRvzmv0oZCc17-D_vxiVXKN59OpYJiQ/s1600/manton_1015_transfer.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5LeAlZBDZBw9cVZI2B1Ixlc-0CVWEOxDhv40SmRFZpeHPRiMLoTVa1m5oDC77Rgy8pI4W9xWYM1cjuDtO0nkf7Ub0wV7G3CPB38ZA_u7pC9GVSRvzmv0oZCc17-D_vxiVXKN59OpYJiQ/s640/manton_1015_transfer.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-85768677682125493832016-09-27T12:52:00.000-07:002016-09-27T12:52:43.682-07:00Patrone-Modele - Sport Ensemble<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZnXfd7jfROCsL0swt4LrRDkpHuv3OZJlTRl4_PdHbSBTjzQANFm5S0_KkhKxzNuazrcsxndxRWaRixtvwsMSxTtk-Tkp22XMOAvc0VI4JnsOQ2nOV4Vs2qULC_KsEwJyM2Tj2_yL2Bd4/s1600/Patrone_Modele_400609_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZnXfd7jfROCsL0swt4LrRDkpHuv3OZJlTRl4_PdHbSBTjzQANFm5S0_KkhKxzNuazrcsxndxRWaRixtvwsMSxTtk-Tkp22XMOAvc0VI4JnsOQ2nOV4Vs2qULC_KsEwJyM2Tj2_yL2Bd4/s640/Patrone_Modele_400609_f.jpg" width="466" /></a></div>
<br />
First half of the 1950s. Mes amis, it is time to get the Citroen out of the garage and take a tour into the wine country to see the grape harvest. Monsieur will be correctly dressed for the country in this sport ensemble of plus fours and jacket in wool.<br />
<br />
The waist length jacket (blouson) is interesting. In the Unites States, we've seen this style in working clothing as early as the late 19th century, with <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2008/07/universal-fashion-company-800-working.html" target="_blank">Cosmopolitan 800</a>, the working blouse, and then around World War I, with <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2008/08/excella-1111-mens-jumper.html" target="_blank">Excella 1111</a>, the men's jumper. In the 1920s, even with the somewhat loose definition of "waist length," the style, now called a "windbreaker" shows up in outerwear for boys, <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2010/12/butterick-7031-boys-windbreaker.html" target="_blank">Butterick 7031</a>, and women, <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2012/11/butterick-7068-misses-juniors-and-girls.html" target="_blank">Butterick 7068</a>. By the 1930s, when the waist had risen just past normal to being a little high, the style was still popular, as seen in <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2011/03/pictorial-review-9051-boys-and-mens.html" target="_blank">Pictorial Review 9051</a>. From here, it's a short hop of a few years to World War II and the British Army's re-design of its battle dress which included the waist-length jacket (also referred to as a blouse.) Today we typically refer to this style as an Eisenhower or Ike jacket, but it turns out that he himself borrowed the style from the British.<br />
<br />
This is a nice interpretation, with a zip front closing, substantial pockets with flaps, and the large, wing-like spread collar so popular at the time.<br />
<br />
The plus-fours are referred to simply as "pantalon" on the front of the envelope. The slightly more detailed description on the back of the envelope calls them "culotte de golf," which Google Translate tells me is "knickerbockers." It seems a slightly old-fashioned look, yet it must have been popular enough for <i>Le Petit Echo de la Mode</i> to produce a home sewing pattern for culotte de golf, particularly as patterns for men's clothing represent just a tiny fraction of their pattern offerings.<br />
<br />
Although not visible in the illustration, by looking at the layout one sees that the fullness of these culotte de golf is darted into bands.<br />
<br />
Even though it's tempting to explain away these plus-fours as a style for older gentlemen who had worn them in the 1930s and saw no reason to change, some fairly stylish interpretations of plus fours show up in the men's fashion magazine <i>L'Homme</i> in Summer 1954 for young men, and as late as Spring-Summer 1959 for older men. (Despite multiple searches in two languages, I've not yet been able to come up with any documentary evidence that french gentlemen actually wore plus fours for golfing in the 1950s.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixl7Rk5AhQVRILXceK7hmTghzReZTk5jfLZi2zQ8WZSHboc3039_YC86nWra15RDxOMZF2pVU5VMtM17CqijQC6cxmPc4HVYtSelTMtwjSCcCuXSvSB6LlmUgY4KmXepP0XdMbnxi4iTc/s1600/French_Sportswear_young_men_1954_summer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixl7Rk5AhQVRILXceK7hmTghzReZTk5jfLZi2zQ8WZSHboc3039_YC86nWra15RDxOMZF2pVU5VMtM17CqijQC6cxmPc4HVYtSelTMtwjSCcCuXSvSB6LlmUgY4KmXepP0XdMbnxi4iTc/s640/French_Sportswear_young_men_1954_summer.jpg" width="458" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/391109548863394960/" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ34RlfOFtizRbJ-T8pLTTfoA3uWmyGeiUiLNaSgczLHpsa3jbGzbL1qLlg4oadCQE2m0QjSM05PjYgdsx9qwfp-i9Tw57ddd2KG36BczU_vCeTaRti3a49yxuCHHhnGwyMKcuuk92uao/s1600/1959_Mens_sportswear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ34RlfOFtizRbJ-T8pLTTfoA3uWmyGeiUiLNaSgczLHpsa3jbGzbL1qLlg4oadCQE2m0QjSM05PjYgdsx9qwfp-i9Tw57ddd2KG36BczU_vCeTaRti3a49yxuCHHhnGwyMKcuuk92uao/s640/1959_Mens_sportswear.jpg" width="467" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.folievintage.fr/vintage-retro-pinup-style/mode-hommes-annees-50/" target="_blank">Source</a><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr02fiQVvmrlWD91r8n6FBgSgDVln6uzcmZnFu3H4PFml37I_3cgIFB8857bwHrXGR7a1U6tiGoNNL3y_HpWRBoXa-Q909G95hQSefwlxOpAm2fZ6dj6woGShEQJFwLrRcghvXxIfzQFY/s1600/patrone_modele_b+1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr02fiQVvmrlWD91r8n6FBgSgDVln6uzcmZnFu3H4PFml37I_3cgIFB8857bwHrXGR7a1U6tiGoNNL3y_HpWRBoXa-Q909G95hQSefwlxOpAm2fZ6dj6woGShEQJFwLrRcghvXxIfzQFY/s640/patrone_modele_b+1.jpeg" width="456" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This unprinted pattern is unused.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And we're off!</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXHy4S1bHJyLJrRsMVs7ZTXNqscG4p37SNwR98oQC2BINy5456T6nnZLVOcyEminCtZr0IbG03W4MDuRRIw_DUhZbPk04mcmz9mONqXR9YSjcBn9MzAcN5oaCQlFPBpHcEwIdPP8jFwB4/s1600/citroen_six_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXHy4S1bHJyLJrRsMVs7ZTXNqscG4p37SNwR98oQC2BINy5456T6nnZLVOcyEminCtZr0IbG03W4MDuRRIw_DUhZbPk04mcmz9mONqXR9YSjcBn9MzAcN5oaCQlFPBpHcEwIdPP8jFwB4/s640/citroen_six_15.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://normandie-autos-sports.xooit.fr/t1437-80-ANS-DE-LA-TRACTION-AVANT.htm" target="_blank">1950s Citroen Traction Avant Six 15</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-84504133375318847722016-09-19T00:00:00.000-07:002016-09-19T00:00:10.548-07:00DuBarry 1300B (Ladies' Pirate Costume)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7tk__wM0BLCYIGUePi6Wi4JSnLozr6jQDqub8ll87zqLexhYRolKMTOybWc1l-CZd0kgF5Z3NxNCBNAKVvTyXVGvLTjAli2rxMi_NM93_uZiy0eDtkPsNQU3ER33tAgZ_Y9UTUyGVlM/s1600/DuBarry_1300B_f.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7tk__wM0BLCYIGUePi6Wi4JSnLozr6jQDqub8ll87zqLexhYRolKMTOybWc1l-CZd0kgF5Z3NxNCBNAKVvTyXVGvLTjAli2rxMi_NM93_uZiy0eDtkPsNQU3ER33tAgZ_Y9UTUyGVlM/s640/DuBarry_1300B_f.jpeg" width="420" /></a></div>
Mid 1930s.<br />
<br />
This one is in the fine tradition of pirate pin-up girls, who sometimes get enlisted to sell oranges.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBCR0jhl1ADSt2CdUJ_ZojwgPDA5sEvSsVO03L0PLH1MVZqa9oKHcwU5uQ27wjjk2mtaLPT8MipM85j5L_KkzVLIXdAokM7XBNmhD_4FlC1hipqJY7wR5ELBXUkAJFBV5d_yl1LZJlag/s1600/Silver_Fleet_Oranges_Pirate_Gal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="584" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBCR0jhl1ADSt2CdUJ_ZojwgPDA5sEvSsVO03L0PLH1MVZqa9oKHcwU5uQ27wjjk2mtaLPT8MipM85j5L_KkzVLIXdAokM7XBNmhD_4FlC1hipqJY7wR5ELBXUkAJFBV5d_yl1LZJlag/s640/Silver_Fleet_Oranges_Pirate_Gal.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Although today we think of costumes being worn only on Halloween, fancy dress parties were still popular in the 1930s throughout the year. Sometimes they were charity benefits. I believe I see a pirate in the second row, third from the left in this wonderful 1930s group from Tasmania.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLgIAOFu84Ya9DS0wpmr_StH3H0x_-yNIySmQAQbaGQVLX8cVuyxBqQ1JA0rTWG4HsiGEchnP_AzRjC-ddx2edTveynH38yRmHtQu6Pi6WKQCMIma1R7h8KSKVSXYxBInB_HlmSKn2hw/s1600/Tasmanian+Philatelic+Society+fancy+dress+ball.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLgIAOFu84Ya9DS0wpmr_StH3H0x_-yNIySmQAQbaGQVLX8cVuyxBqQ1JA0rTWG4HsiGEchnP_AzRjC-ddx2edTveynH38yRmHtQu6Pi6WKQCMIma1R7h8KSKVSXYxBInB_HlmSKn2hw/s640/Tasmanian+Philatelic+Society+fancy+dress+ball.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the <a href="http://tps.org.au/bb/viewtopic.php?t=98" target="_blank">Tasmanian Philatelic Society</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Pattern pieces are included for the blouse, bolero, and shorts. The instructions sheet describes how to cut out the bandana and sash, both on the straight, and because this is the 1930s, also on the bias.<br />
<br />
DuBarry patterns were sold in Woolworth's and produced by Simplicity. This unprinted pattern shows some signs of being used.<br />
<br />
Happy Talk Like a Pirate Day!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMoysB4195EoCjveNt0VySIw6_cGJzcFw5UAeIxUM8MzKalUY8ndekgJW1QE7903EzqKXfu5m_Rs-2QD43N3yChLVApzXSZd3R1Lj8jHfTdb-ZMQUAW1-l8-V4YWRa-G_mIAQhH3s-F8/s1600/DuBarry_1300B_b.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMoysB4195EoCjveNt0VySIw6_cGJzcFw5UAeIxUM8MzKalUY8ndekgJW1QE7903EzqKXfu5m_Rs-2QD43N3yChLVApzXSZd3R1Lj8jHfTdb-ZMQUAW1-l8-V4YWRa-G_mIAQhH3s-F8/s640/DuBarry_1300B_b.jpeg" width="420" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-20158845788582830212016-08-29T23:02:00.001-07:002021-06-02T11:32:23.917-07:00Weldons No. 83 - Smart Overalls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRR4kDOjpTdlkEwmDp_RJnjFmCDOm6_l7AgondR9slP5NlqsTpEddkZ1dXU07bj6wje7L0hXE8rBYCFUb2xN7WgLYuIriyZUeQyITwa8m-rNy4xEN5C31hKBy7PPa-aSuhGuFXkkdryY/s1600/weldon_sew_easy_83.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRR4kDOjpTdlkEwmDp_RJnjFmCDOm6_l7AgondR9slP5NlqsTpEddkZ1dXU07bj6wje7L0hXE8rBYCFUb2xN7WgLYuIriyZUeQyITwa8m-rNy4xEN5C31hKBy7PPa-aSuhGuFXkkdryY/s640/weldon_sew_easy_83.jpg" width="414" /></a></div>
<br />
1940s (World War II). Probably after June, 1941.<br />
<br />
Weldons was the British equivalent of McCalls, producing both a women's magazine and home sewing patterns.<br />
<br />
Weldon's "So-Easy" line of patterns seems to have started in the late 1930s, and may have been expanded during the war years. According to the web site for the <a href="http://www.iwm.org.uk/history/8-facts-about-clothes-rationing-in-britain-during-the-second-world-war" target="_blank">Imperial War Museum</a>, clothing rationing was imposed on June 1, 1941. Utility clothing, which regulated fabric, trims, and findings, was introduced in 1942.<br />
<br />
I haven't yet found any indication that sewing patterns were rationed. When Weldons indicates that their So-Easy patterns are "special coupon value designs," I take this to mean that the designs accounted for rationing of yard goods, which <i>did</i> require coupons.<br />
<br />
The use of the term "overall" is a shortening of the earlier term "overall apron." ("Overall" is also used in Britain for the sleeveless double-fronted apron that we know here in the states as a Hoover apron or Hooverette.)<br />
<br />
The overall would have been important to women is several ways. First, women who did factory work would often have been required to provide their own "work" clothes, and some women probably made their own. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
This woman's cheery garment is an overall, the short sleeves not quite covering the blouse or dress sleeve underneath:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCP9m1AP3ka0Xoye5HN3vHQh3AZksVcTJ5HgJgaSnIzHgzAieqSTrkZlWUMSn9J-JNoPjXu4Ke-gKKZy2GC6VU0FduExawh2tNGoB1CCNNPvNPLlAJAD05MJvglyIGE2sKdRCW33n_1g/s1600/shell-caps-421425.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCP9m1AP3ka0Xoye5HN3vHQh3AZksVcTJ5HgJgaSnIzHgzAieqSTrkZlWUMSn9J-JNoPjXu4Ke-gKKZy2GC6VU0FduExawh2tNGoB1CCNNPvNPLlAJAD05MJvglyIGE2sKdRCW33n_1g/s640/shell-caps-421425.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />Second, with strict rationing reducing one's clothes purchases to about one outfit per year, an overall worn over one's dress or skirt and blouse would have kept them clean and lasting longer.</div>
<div style="clear: both;">
Here's a lovely photograph of ladies of the Women's Institute in their aprons and overalls, making fruit preserves of some kind (my money is on marmalade.)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZazJzFXVOdT7NDfcc5RRkv_SrZ7UhZkRBPJii25pfXa0pKnjIo194_41mBGdyd6kqvEihtiYZQ9l2d24QbwVs48GLFNY7eXc9YEQrhyphenhyphenSpa6f_OFMwHkRcYK5B4Mcj4AjNZGjQ8fqdh8/s1600/womens_institute_WWII.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZazJzFXVOdT7NDfcc5RRkv_SrZ7UhZkRBPJii25pfXa0pKnjIo194_41mBGdyd6kqvEihtiYZQ9l2d24QbwVs48GLFNY7eXc9YEQrhyphenhyphenSpa6f_OFMwHkRcYK5B4Mcj4AjNZGjQ8fqdh8/s1600/womens_institute_WWII.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Florals seem to have been the most popular print for overalls, and overalls even make their way into books. Chapter 10 of Angela Thirkell's 1940 book <i>Cheerfulness Breaks In</i> starts with:</div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"...Lydia Keith...went off on foot to Northbridge village with a large flowered overall in a bag."</blockquote>
Lydia wears her overall while cooking lunch for evacuees.<br />
<br />
The Weldons overall is essentially a simple, button-front shirt waist dress. Raglan sleeves would have been a little simpler to make up than set-in sleeves.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_cL4Vzch32tSzRqQfGPmAqJgPTxybMa8IfYY7mHAsplrrEABz6OE2xF5FTxXYgsL3Az2NsRyM0lx0YBsohLWLBbQuJ37q8v2-HFTmHneFeqlC0QI4fo4PGJve0bze5IrD3XvNgmWhio/s1600/Weldon_So_Easy_83_instructions+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_cL4Vzch32tSzRqQfGPmAqJgPTxybMa8IfYY7mHAsplrrEABz6OE2xF5FTxXYgsL3Az2NsRyM0lx0YBsohLWLBbQuJ37q8v2-HFTmHneFeqlC0QI4fo4PGJve0bze5IrD3XvNgmWhio/s640/Weldon_So_Easy_83_instructions+%25281%2529.jpg" width="530" /></a></div>
<br />
This unprinted pattern is unused.andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-55074832561767437282015-09-07T12:09:00.000-07:002015-09-07T12:09:05.687-07:00Votre Mode 686 - Robe ou Tablier de Classe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR243it4Bn3sAhmxrVeCLQEAct7NxGHhcasgJU0X-exQ-7iySesq7ZZgifJ5ylP9_3ffNrOnSpAr75qCi-kPudm-pYhRYrMSSJmfdN6T13iuCwyMqZAs40rd_qRS_Th-mwW7P_jK1M3W8/s1600/Votre_mode_tablier_686_f.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR243it4Bn3sAhmxrVeCLQEAct7NxGHhcasgJU0X-exQ-7iySesq7ZZgifJ5ylP9_3ffNrOnSpAr75qCi-kPudm-pYhRYrMSSJmfdN6T13iuCwyMqZAs40rd_qRS_Th-mwW7P_jK1M3W8/s640/Votre_mode_tablier_686_f.jpeg" width="442" /></a></div>
<br />
[Class dress or apron] This unprinted tissue pattern was one of a lot of two. The other pattern is a pull-out from the <i>Votre Mode</i> magazine.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisw6zjL8VfwicEkY6LYNtlhPkaSgjBCAionENeo5ByB_RYzrbwLMeZVwJfxLPcbzL-vpBwinh2Zfqr0q6L7F_4-ADqU2IIYiJSF20Xt1CldQbeWEh5594oBoSardWPUZIYToLVEd5_ErE/s1600/Votre_mode_tablier_pullout_rotated.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisw6zjL8VfwicEkY6LYNtlhPkaSgjBCAionENeo5ByB_RYzrbwLMeZVwJfxLPcbzL-vpBwinh2Zfqr0q6L7F_4-ADqU2IIYiJSF20Xt1CldQbeWEh5594oBoSardWPUZIYToLVEd5_ErE/s640/Votre_mode_tablier_pullout_rotated.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The typeface and photos of women's fashions in the pull-out point to a 1950s date. The tissue pattern might be a little earlier. Just to the left of the boy's right arm you can just see the perforations from the tracing wheel used to trace off the pattern.<br />
<br />
The fascinating site H<a href="http://histclo.com/" target="_blank">istorical Boys Clothes</a> tells us that in France boys wore school smocks through the 1950s, and points out that until the economy recovered after WW II, putting smocks on your students would protect clothes that might have been expensive or difficult to replace. I'd guess that boys would stop wearing smocks by the time they started wearing long pants.<br />
<br />
The boy's smock in the pull-out pattern is described as being made up in black satinette, a smooth-faced cotton fabric, with a white pique collar. Here's a fine example of boy in his smock in a painting by <a href="http://www.wikiart.org/en/balthus/children-1937#close" target="_blank">Balthus</a>:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI4PMRUlbngK7PJ6-YrQAaPrU577oIRXCCPIVb3LzCVLnXEbJz-qUghtiAzjfkXt0ApSxeN2LunNbQKO8flX75Q5Xjr9b-TOMVZdOUdRIYwOk6YUKWRxCul9oH1tRqd0ohuX7PGRk7ag/s1600/Balthus_children-1937.jpg%2521Blog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI4PMRUlbngK7PJ6-YrQAaPrU577oIRXCCPIVb3LzCVLnXEbJz-qUghtiAzjfkXt0ApSxeN2LunNbQKO8flX75Q5Xjr9b-TOMVZdOUdRIYwOk6YUKWRxCul9oH1tRqd0ohuX7PGRk7ag/s640/Balthus_children-1937.jpg%2521Blog.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The girls' smocks are a little less dreary - one in a solid cotton fabric, the other in a "vichy quadrille," or gingham, which is used on the bias to provide decorative bands on the yoke and pockets.<br />
<br />
I was intrigued to find this example of a commercially produced smock in an Etsy shop. Note the front yoke on the bias, and then note that the plaid hasn't been matched on the back yokes. This makes sense for a garment that's going to used hard and outgrown.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMLdSIx5U1U0nwcj8QfCE-u71njYVYi9woqXYhBIcfptGkM9coYp4bQk7xrYwZL0V4tRMQ19SN_gD4jiOFREd9_rvIaW0atp-58WDMoTx3WWdiHV8zXhPU3IbGjgBu5j3LayBtYLnneY/s1600/French_School_Smock_1950s_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMLdSIx5U1U0nwcj8QfCE-u71njYVYi9woqXYhBIcfptGkM9coYp4bQk7xrYwZL0V4tRMQ19SN_gD4jiOFREd9_rvIaW0atp-58WDMoTx3WWdiHV8zXhPU3IbGjgBu5j3LayBtYLnneY/s640/French_School_Smock_1950s_front.jpg" width="524" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uSnvSIf8-soFWz8BQlw-FP_sHWabXHrma6_BmVNwCMWkCM8YyaJKu6-5OHr8zuV2_mHDZdsL2_KRrOByAKI08iOsKG4TobEAgrZrHApyON56xYfF8LgPXSVVJT5AtIoCOsvRyJhYfgs/s1600/french_School_Smock_1950s_back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uSnvSIf8-soFWz8BQlw-FP_sHWabXHrma6_BmVNwCMWkCM8YyaJKu6-5OHr8zuV2_mHDZdsL2_KRrOByAKI08iOsKG4TobEAgrZrHApyON56xYfF8LgPXSVVJT5AtIoCOsvRyJhYfgs/s640/french_School_Smock_1950s_back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
It would be interesting to learn how people felt about their school smocks. Did they like them? Was it nicer to have a new smock in the fall than a hand-me down? Did those with home-made smocks envy those with store-bought smocks?<br />
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-56084497556639967462015-08-22T09:48:00.000-07:002020-05-21T21:10:48.675-07:00McCall 4653 - Ladies' & Misses' One-Piece Overalls or Shorts<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfLOa1Co5On5t42JumOxKGSVMD-O-BCPb12fAH4OHTMj4DcQGHCoWiexzPuWnYaJ0KcClt6UQAmxsAlstD1lCrmiB07k4D3zul74um8vDlyYR3WAZl5I-7idimOL4RvaA0ohoXvusW4sg/s1600/McCall+4653_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfLOa1Co5On5t42JumOxKGSVMD-O-BCPb12fAH4OHTMj4DcQGHCoWiexzPuWnYaJ0KcClt6UQAmxsAlstD1lCrmiB07k4D3zul74um8vDlyYR3WAZl5I-7idimOL4RvaA0ohoXvusW4sg/s640/McCall+4653_f.jpg" width="454" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
1942<br />
<br />
Once you get your Victory Garden watered, you can change into a cool play suit and take a nice picnic out to the lake (provided you have enough gas coupons.)<br />
<br />
Here's another fine entry into women's war-time work wear. Miss A. wears the very get-the-job done overalls, probably made up in denim or chambray, with plenty of white top-stitching The banded sleeves will be a little faster to make than struggling with sleeve plackets and buttoned cuffs. The over sized right pocket with its pencil slot borrows from men's work shirts.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlrACLiHLqOcKhqtVpR-NszLP8eJJNynuZd_R27bCjfW4My76igQUwWjD3h6sQpab_Scpsp_SAmYRtaJQQoFG_HBUoEx8G-hR-NSq1OrgszkPnq10IRMwtfpNKjMexINFMWe8jj3yUoA/s1600/mccall_4653_instructions_detail.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlrACLiHLqOcKhqtVpR-NszLP8eJJNynuZd_R27bCjfW4My76igQUwWjD3h6sQpab_Scpsp_SAmYRtaJQQoFG_HBUoEx8G-hR-NSq1OrgszkPnq10IRMwtfpNKjMexINFMWe8jj3yUoA/s640/mccall_4653_instructions_detail.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Miss B, who has finished her work for the day, looks cool and comfortable and ready for a game of badminton. With her one-piece play suit, she won't have to worry about becoming untucked following one of her wicked overhand serves.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigVJYk_ZkouDwxel_7DiIh3iKkaAzqJo08wxDaL4c-dxLUhpiYuMc8BuLe4RLMmFCeERjy7MpvZ1XyTvmc6Lx5PZYeWQeQ4HHbje87uLeLyAX5-gKGxjHNJ7RWpobgA41REQcDUqujino/s1600/1940s_badminton_ladies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigVJYk_ZkouDwxel_7DiIh3iKkaAzqJo08wxDaL4c-dxLUhpiYuMc8BuLe4RLMmFCeERjy7MpvZ1XyTvmc6Lx5PZYeWQeQ4HHbje87uLeLyAX5-gKGxjHNJ7RWpobgA41REQcDUqujino/s640/1940s_badminton_ladies.jpg" width="638" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">From the </span><a href="http://blogs.lib.ku.edu/spencer/tag/summer/" style="font-size: 12.8px;" target="_blank">Kenneth Spencer Research Library,</a><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> University of Kansas</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This printed pattern has been cut out in Version A.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHacmwMjzsz7mA_DQzVsP5iuaSq6t4FUUMG3TugDBSejRcRq5lWniBG-Ek68Zdw8o_pVEi3HUHASmpZhXYTTCMcB9o0fCzDk5yQy8IA8nGhnoaCznFHfLA517ECvsNGohTNqR92CcJKIQ/s1600/mccall_4653_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHacmwMjzsz7mA_DQzVsP5iuaSq6t4FUUMG3TugDBSejRcRq5lWniBG-Ek68Zdw8o_pVEi3HUHASmpZhXYTTCMcB9o0fCzDk5yQy8IA8nGhnoaCznFHfLA517ECvsNGohTNqR92CcJKIQ/s640/mccall_4653_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-79796439610286141002015-03-06T17:43:00.000-08:002015-03-06T17:43:11.073-08:00McCall 3610 - Ladies' Apron<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIGyMQ0a46dTkFC-VT7r4dYdQKnZtVwJDFYiVKt2x9hohQsxyDu8aYiL0kLzbdyFRBY3tQAEiMuEYZdW4EXflhzdCRhCGzbpGTNBKoqF_zlF99ajS9K242okLRaOgNNu__So69Tz2tvY/s1600/McCall_3610_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIGyMQ0a46dTkFC-VT7r4dYdQKnZtVwJDFYiVKt2x9hohQsxyDu8aYiL0kLzbdyFRBY3tQAEiMuEYZdW4EXflhzdCRhCGzbpGTNBKoqF_zlF99ajS9K242okLRaOgNNu__So69Tz2tvY/s1600/McCall_3610_f.jpg" height="640" width="536" /></a></div>
<br />
About 1910.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This one seems to be related to <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2008/07/mccall-2550.html">McCall 2550</a>, although in this case, rather than holding her palette and brush, our model holds her fluffy little dish mop, ready to bring her cut glass pitcher and bowl to a gleaming shine.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Like McCall 2550, there are no pockets in this apron; I can never fathom an apron without pockets.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The style is a little uncommon, with the narrow band across the front and the deep V back.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh0_zvugdIAYddrrGe7bhYvGwoy5zj19rAEgAR5MslOgedisUu1g7by7D6FMGEcsegvGFU0QJ8BkPjxb0aMn230ZSiZmfuDpbJj_mRKG66Ar3xr8X8Bcj3tmTz10eZKhvN7CTRqahweFg/s1600/McCall_3610_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh0_zvugdIAYddrrGe7bhYvGwoy5zj19rAEgAR5MslOgedisUu1g7by7D6FMGEcsegvGFU0QJ8BkPjxb0aMn230ZSiZmfuDpbJj_mRKG66Ar3xr8X8Bcj3tmTz10eZKhvN7CTRqahweFg/s1600/McCall_3610_b.jpg" height="640" width="536" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br />
</div>
<div>
The pattern itself doesn't seem to have been used much, but the envelope has certainly had a hard life.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The maker must have been in a hurry when she folded up the pattern pieces, as several scraps of fabric got swept into the folds - very possibly a <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=stifel%20indigo" target="_blank">Stifel indigo</a>. This is the second apron pattern I have with evidence of having been made up in an indigo calico.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vVriEhmMRmPHZyQBDa5KSm1hcBE4_t_7JZGQWl7R9Xe0tK8k6AwUgr1D-zsFxU4TlOMsI98pMnPfggH1Sk8yXsuTK5u_vEupjP6f7Nxi-qdoSrVBsFtpeBcWMq8MxfkgdpsuEj9I0io/s1600-h/mccall_3610_scraps.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vVriEhmMRmPHZyQBDa5KSm1hcBE4_t_7JZGQWl7R9Xe0tK8k6AwUgr1D-zsFxU4TlOMsI98pMnPfggH1Sk8yXsuTK5u_vEupjP6f7Nxi-qdoSrVBsFtpeBcWMq8MxfkgdpsuEj9I0io/s400/mccall_3610_scraps.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374862027858068322" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 301px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<br />
I recently decided I needed an apron to keep in the sewing room, so I made up this pattern in some pink chambray I had on hand.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-yKWIr6zTpZGKb4b78RA_yK_K_DMHT1k3gSVe6QcV3zCyctTBEZrg1X0uf8nXzf1RoyTIHdhRtqhncX84oCgjVXz92beCDShoBTF-0SITIO08xej5ua8xFCTrs9jFOZk6o7ggc4GFtVM/s1600/mccall_3610_made_up_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-yKWIr6zTpZGKb4b78RA_yK_K_DMHT1k3gSVe6QcV3zCyctTBEZrg1X0uf8nXzf1RoyTIHdhRtqhncX84oCgjVXz92beCDShoBTF-0SITIO08xej5ua8xFCTrs9jFOZk6o7ggc4GFtVM/s1600/mccall_3610_made_up_f.jpg" height="640" width="400" /></a></div>
This pattern was produced before either fabric layout diagrams or detailed construction instructions were offered, so the maker is on her own to decide whether or not to face the yoke (I did, for strength and neatness) and how to finished the edges of the straps and upper backs. (I cut 1 1/2" bias strips of the chambray and used them as facings.)<br />
<br />
This apron is quite large. The front yoke finishes to 16" and I think this apron would easily accommodate a bust measurement of about 40". I shortened the pattern by 5" and with a 1" doubled-over hem, ended up with an apron that ends just above my ankle. The circumference at the bottom is 80". The ties are at mid back, which isn't as inconvenient to reach as you might think.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0gaAf_JHafFJdQj1u6ssO0IRkwe0Do5JbwuZY0_iduN7XfirIiUvPBTZ8Sm5x4mYVDaydkS3g8jhUydQ-0GVVkS1BNNLu4sGZq6Sh55wRdXPzR_Cq-ItBBMj5usstOpJhP3SLTEHr7DQ/s1600/mccall_3610_made_up_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0gaAf_JHafFJdQj1u6ssO0IRkwe0Do5JbwuZY0_iduN7XfirIiUvPBTZ8Sm5x4mYVDaydkS3g8jhUydQ-0GVVkS1BNNLu4sGZq6Sh55wRdXPzR_Cq-ItBBMj5usstOpJhP3SLTEHr7DQ/s1600/mccall_3610_made_up_b.jpg" height="640" width="314" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Originally posted on 8/27/2009. Re-posted on 3/6/2015 to show made garment.</i></span>andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-72947913539437341822015-03-03T10:01:00.001-08:002015-03-03T10:01:58.913-08:00Les Patrons Favoris & Les Patrons Parisiens 17.6 - Tablier Fantaisie<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-NjtzRC7AQ6Bv691jfNENgFz1Yt-2aF4x9rZlI1OFunR9UMa3Cgj2hFq4lar5QAfARNdtPQcIp-BDie2lGMjVjjbsYM9-ErhsyYwFrhegYtTazf6jycioCt6XHlRl3sMHyo9JW5JouQ/s1600/Favoris_Parisien_17_6_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-NjtzRC7AQ6Bv691jfNENgFz1Yt-2aF4x9rZlI1OFunR9UMa3Cgj2hFq4lar5QAfARNdtPQcIp-BDie2lGMjVjjbsYM9-ErhsyYwFrhegYtTazf6jycioCt6XHlRl3sMHyo9JW5JouQ/s1600/Favoris_Parisien_17_6_f.jpg" height="640" width="414" /></a></div>
<br />
Late 1940s, early 1950s.<br />
<br />
This is a nice example of how "The New Look" made its way into all aspects of women's clothing, not just dressy clothing. What makes this "fancy" apron such a wonderful example is that the essence of the new look shape has been captured in the shape of the applied pockets. Probably <a href="http://www.dior.com/couture/en_us/the-house-of-dior/the-story-of-dior/the-new-look-revolution" target="_blank">M. Dior </a>didn't foresee this apron in 1947 when he launched his stylistic sigh of relief that World War II was finally over.<br />
<br />
The instructions indicate that this apron can be made up in gingham or cretonne (a printed cotton fabric often recommended for aprons) and that the pockets, as shown in the illustration, can be cut from a contrasting fabric.<br />
<br />
This style with a full back wrap is also popular at this period in the United States.<br />
<br />
This cut, unprinted, pattern doesn't include allowances for either seams or hem, and was produced in only a single size. French patterns were typically offered only in a single size with a bust measurement of about 38 inches. Not having the seam allowances actually makes it easier to alter the pattern. Note the small box on the back of the envelope that describes how to resize the pattern. There are some interesting questions around this. Where did women learn to alter patterns with confidence? Altering an apron is one thing - altering a pattern for a suit jacket is another matter entirely. Could women hire somebody to alter home sewing patterns for them if they weren't confident of their own skill at this? What was women's tolerance for less-than-perfect alterations? Striving to avoid that "home-made look" comes up repeatedly in home sewing books, but for the demographic who bought these patterns, was a slightly gappy neckline or twisted sleeve acceptable?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9D5pq9LyalvlEQbcm034cUTd_lODHOxd9-3HPrHH-4ybr3R90-IsYAEAfckgxBDFJQbWsk93RxZYBgqxnjSOdn32vs0SHZw9cqyiz4rbk0twuhiylkL6CrC5wFxGkBZ6KGW9qi2ovpJ4/s1600/Favoris_Parisien_17_6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9D5pq9LyalvlEQbcm034cUTd_lODHOxd9-3HPrHH-4ybr3R90-IsYAEAfckgxBDFJQbWsk93RxZYBgqxnjSOdn32vs0SHZw9cqyiz4rbk0twuhiylkL6CrC5wFxGkBZ6KGW9qi2ovpJ4/s1600/Favoris_Parisien_17_6.jpg" height="640" width="408" /></a></div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-60817977108062589952014-12-20T15:44:00.001-08:002023-02-04T11:50:39.414-08:00Butterick 4514 - Shawl and Travelling Case<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSokDfNKV5awHGzXdaUkJzyVtkxKgEqARkbFAW4tF0b-HMLB3dLrASCDbK9jbbtVyyvy9tIEMT79TTRVq3yAW7IjI0ExmjeSm5z-IxW5vJq6fVB-Dq6Bx00B0G3Blg3X3CbmSQL6Iwu9M/s1600/butterick_4514.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSokDfNKV5awHGzXdaUkJzyVtkxKgEqARkbFAW4tF0b-HMLB3dLrASCDbK9jbbtVyyvy9tIEMT79TTRVq3yAW7IjI0ExmjeSm5z-IxW5vJq6fVB-Dq6Bx00B0G3Blg3X3CbmSQL6Iwu9M/s1600/butterick_4514.jpg" width="508" /></a></div>
<br />Issued May, 1892, the case also appears on page 697 of <i>The Delineator</i> for June, 1898.<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_smRtwZn_oWFlX1uS43HxWdCtZEk4bTjPnI2BiO3WIGjIs9mjO6e0rl5YtuNu0R4NkYaV_lXDu-Uhxmueemi1ADvzZ4iQsian5Rs9nikm2JLRtKk_4Ti51Y7Yx43QhNKoePtOZ4UAZzJ_ptVQNZ4V-s_Uht2h5ynnyJZ_0o4L3_Z5UqSqFjwqCIJD/s1024/Delineator_1898_p697_Butterick_4514.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_smRtwZn_oWFlX1uS43HxWdCtZEk4bTjPnI2BiO3WIGjIs9mjO6e0rl5YtuNu0R4NkYaV_lXDu-Uhxmueemi1ADvzZ4iQsian5Rs9nikm2JLRtKk_4Ti51Y7Yx43QhNKoePtOZ4UAZzJ_ptVQNZ4V-s_Uht2h5ynnyJZ_0o4L3_Z5UqSqFjwqCIJD/s16000/Delineator_1898_p697_Butterick_4514.png" /></a></div><br />The text that accompanies the illustration:</div><div><blockquote><i>A case of this kind is frequently called into request at this season, when everyone is making ready for Summer journeys. A few of the necessaries may be packed in such a case for a short journey or for use until the often-belated trunk arrives. It is made of brown linen, by pattern No. 4514, price 5d. or 10 cents. The shape is oblong and figure No. 6 shows the inside, which is provided with a wide and two narrow pockets, for comb and brush and other articles of the toilet. All the free edges are bound with brown braid. The outside of the case is simply embroidered with shaded brown silks. Straps are bound with braid and secured with buttons and button-holes. A small outside pocket for change and a strap by which to carry are also braid-bound.</i></blockquote></div><div>By the time the case appeared in the Delineator, the pattern was six years old. That's a relatively long life-span for a pattern. It may have been a popular gift to make and give.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>The shawl case is a member of a whole family of soft luggage that could be made at home or at sea, in the case of ditty bags made by sailors. <i><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q=plate%2024&f=false" target="_blank">The Workwoman's Guide</a></i> of 1840 gives extensive instructions on making travelling dressing cases for both gentlemen and ladies, glove cases, brush and comb bags, boot bags, housewives ("hussifs,") and watch pockets.</div><div>
<br />
By the last quarter of the nineteenth century the term "shawl case" had become a generic term for a smallish case, carried by hand by women, not unlike today's ubiquitous tote bag.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The exact form of the shawl case varies. The shawl case pattern listed in <i>Demorest's Family Magazine</i> for August 1879 is a standard duffel or hold-all shape. It had to be decorated because the Victorian decorated <i>everything</i>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=QGtNAQAAIAAJ&dq=%22shawl%20case%22&pg=PA457&ci=237%2C864%2C400%2C362&source=bookclip"><img height="361" src="https://books.google.com/books?id=QGtNAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA457&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U1Vqn8LR41rHoRvAm0cKy2qXCQ6SA&ci=237%2C864%2C400%2C362&edge=0" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The flat form of Butterick 4514 makes it a little easier to make.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />Are you traveling over the holidays? Don't forget your shawl case! (Just in case your trunk arrives late - some things never change.)</div></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Originally posted August 3, 2008, entirely re-written December 20, 2014, updated on February 4th, 2023.</span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-15637342110738845812014-09-18T20:19:00.000-07:002014-09-18T20:19:29.421-07:00McCall 5040 - Man's Pirate Costume<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnF5sbmJ6eAkoN1xukTYtaiubr3bTqjGB-oW5NeKhkNpOKBbAqOr4HoEhwVcaw6xjvd-zXXWIsqCLFLUFJgYgcn98pkRHA_t0noRpmnlMrNn-O9ZuBQq-JYh81BAko__d-FYUpOtV0kdc/s1600/McCall_5040_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnF5sbmJ6eAkoN1xukTYtaiubr3bTqjGB-oW5NeKhkNpOKBbAqOr4HoEhwVcaw6xjvd-zXXWIsqCLFLUFJgYgcn98pkRHA_t0noRpmnlMrNn-O9ZuBQq-JYh81BAko__d-FYUpOtV0kdc/s1600/McCall_5040_F.jpg" height="640" width="544" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
Early 1930s. Another nice color illustration from McCall, very likely by the same illustrator who did our deadly handsome <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2010/10/mccall-3760-spanish-gentleman-and.html" target="_blank">Spanish Gentleman</a>.<br />
<br />
Pirate movies seem to have been popular from the dawn of the film age - D.W. Griffith made one in 1909. I'm not as knowledgeable about pirate movies of the 1920s and 1930s as I perhaps ought to be, so I can't tell if this gentleman is drawn from anybody specific. Victor Fleming directed an adaptation of <i>Treasure Island</i> in 1934, about when this pattern was issued.<br />
<br />
However, I think that McCall's pirate is close kin to Howard Pyle's elegant pirates in his <i>Book of Pirates. </i>I suspect many gentlemen of the 1930s (forced by their wives to attend charity costume balls) would have known and loved Pyle's book when they were small boys swinging through the rigging of apple trees in their back yards. (I highly recommend visiting the <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/26862/26862-h/26862-h.htm" target="_blank">Project Gutenberg edition</a> so that you can see all of Pyle's wonderful work.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixP1mO0Kx6zEeshf2PSJztE7k9yb9xHqXxr6-QxyHpUiy19n1Oc9CeeCEzsFXnksQj4zvdb_JjZBkt0ZBehJWpdEOs9ul69jaMuRwLcGrFZaUay2BIq9pBLaW3p0DD3iqZQBFspb_Vv7o/s1600/howard_pyle_pirate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixP1mO0Kx6zEeshf2PSJztE7k9yb9xHqXxr6-QxyHpUiy19n1Oc9CeeCEzsFXnksQj4zvdb_JjZBkt0ZBehJWpdEOs9ul69jaMuRwLcGrFZaUay2BIq9pBLaW3p0DD3iqZQBFspb_Vv7o/s1600/howard_pyle_pirate.jpg" height="640" width="288" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This printed pattern does not appear to have been used. Note that the pattern includes pieces for not only the trousers, shirt, and vest, but also for the sash, kerchief, and splendidly floppy hat.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Xs0mgyFn9h9NULbPdp5rD74P9NTqB7gS3fdvjMVesJcRKeSn6ZrcpNjoRjlTJvaYv53iUPOHoyyfMSOyiscNxFQ6dUOJZ0kq6RbAlMALFilMH77fMG0g9Bd8hohqfIQUKk4Kseg5ilw/s1600/McCall_5040_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Xs0mgyFn9h9NULbPdp5rD74P9NTqB7gS3fdvjMVesJcRKeSn6ZrcpNjoRjlTJvaYv53iUPOHoyyfMSOyiscNxFQ6dUOJZ0kq6RbAlMALFilMH77fMG0g9Bd8hohqfIQUKk4Kseg5ilw/s1600/McCall_5040_b.jpg" height="640" width="556" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Happy Talk Like A Pirate Day, everybody!</div>
andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-52506024012644568572014-08-09T09:16:00.001-07:002014-08-09T09:16:25.563-07:00McCall 1597 - Mr. and Mrs. Aprons hat and Mitts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsK6Ixeeme2PuBNUPwwvSdVxYww0ROT3p2k78CLzujdrzJaTU8iNrYrSAODGvY940rorydwXUuj-NrD1A1Ral0twI08BgQBKL_m49UVbZnWWqLiu6WDugQwzEAGv6i3NMP7_lQAxK9qc4/s1600/McCall_1597_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsK6Ixeeme2PuBNUPwwvSdVxYww0ROT3p2k78CLzujdrzJaTU8iNrYrSAODGvY940rorydwXUuj-NrD1A1Ral0twI08BgQBKL_m49UVbZnWWqLiu6WDugQwzEAGv6i3NMP7_lQAxK9qc4/s1600/McCall_1597_f.jpg" height="640" width="488" /></a></div>
1950<br />
<br />
For your summer barbecue season we have another novelty apron. The theme is consistent with other McCall novelty aprons we've seen - there is always a dog in there somewhere! (See also <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2010/12/mccall-2062-family-aprons-and-bib-with.html" target="_blank">McCall 2062</a> and <a href="http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2010/10/mccall-957-mr-and-mrs-aprons.html" target="_blank">McCall 957</a>) This pattern shows up regularly for sale on eBay, so it may have been popular, or it may have been recommended for school or other sewing class use.<br />
<br />
This is a perfectly good basic apron with nice deep pockets. The bias binding while cheery, also strengthens the apron and will give the beginning maker some good experience in working with binding.<br />
<br />
The maker cut out all the pattern pieces but decided not to tangle with the little upper pocket and just shoved it back in the envelope.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMv1bqylR9vpSq8o2t61Ph_wlu4Zr8XhWYeBrTI2tJlIMvtgQ8DkY0zGQ4HyTT644jNVtc249Il432SnjH1TCOeCYtHEGsSbCAGr3ispOZs_au8WRi8b4HXWCCRgNbOc6ZymVzXyqKbU0/s1600/McCall_1597_pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMv1bqylR9vpSq8o2t61Ph_wlu4Zr8XhWYeBrTI2tJlIMvtgQ8DkY0zGQ4HyTT644jNVtc249Il432SnjH1TCOeCYtHEGsSbCAGr3ispOZs_au8WRi8b4HXWCCRgNbOc6ZymVzXyqKbU0/s1600/McCall_1597_pocket.jpg" height="640" width="610" /></a></div>
<br />
A close examination of the illustration reveals that this pocket is for your pack of cigarettes.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWOWbKxO5NB9xFJmvUlTfT0rRy3KI33S8qCtGV5qGz-m57aALVi6TpTq0OiQqT-k05JVdhjFhyphenhyphenYuIfiM1LyFbNVBvH_10MRbNcOX0HWHRFv7tVIdpC5z8fTaduV1ZXI7b5ORmsNmO2zk/s1600/McCall_1597_cigarette_pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWOWbKxO5NB9xFJmvUlTfT0rRy3KI33S8qCtGV5qGz-m57aALVi6TpTq0OiQqT-k05JVdhjFhyphenhyphenYuIfiM1LyFbNVBvH_10MRbNcOX0HWHRFv7tVIdpC5z8fTaduV1ZXI7b5ORmsNmO2zk/s1600/McCall_1597_cigarette_pocket.jpg" height="606" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Although the pattern was used, the transfers were not. (<i>What</i>? You don't want to spend time embroidering silly dogs on your apron? Why ever not?)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWOYkVkG1P_PLUAW6uVSTbwN3fjESXHNhYY7M6ujDqkWvxR-iYVM-Q6HhLwZSepsWQ6ellNQyQA4caKuUSGY85Un6YUkpS3btx7XD-tz89s3EpDgWW1BzUgx1mJzvyfvoGN_CZThYggE/s1600/McCall_1597_dog_transfer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWOYkVkG1P_PLUAW6uVSTbwN3fjESXHNhYY7M6ujDqkWvxR-iYVM-Q6HhLwZSepsWQ6ellNQyQA4caKuUSGY85Un6YUkpS3btx7XD-tz89s3EpDgWW1BzUgx1mJzvyfvoGN_CZThYggE/s1600/McCall_1597_dog_transfer.jpg" height="582" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_LHwOsgFrsKZ-FEHtIus4rc6k_8RZaOIB0YW7GzMgo5LPziGUOpLoChwXmRo_8fxWBTlSOOnaot5aRX7e7F_VSCMeat8ou28z0izcuAzZ9M2rxDueOrkzqWkyUBUfGKn-S6p_caxH9os/s1600/McCall_1597_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_LHwOsgFrsKZ-FEHtIus4rc6k_8RZaOIB0YW7GzMgo5LPziGUOpLoChwXmRo_8fxWBTlSOOnaot5aRX7e7F_VSCMeat8ou28z0izcuAzZ9M2rxDueOrkzqWkyUBUfGKn-S6p_caxH9os/s1600/McCall_1597_b.jpg" height="520" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-74178143267410224952014-06-13T22:28:00.000-07:002016-09-02T12:16:27.602-07:00May Manton 906 - Embroidery for Corset Bag<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAncx8KMoI25p3_RaezL5Nqw50NSFp6Kw6V15Hz4-yTN05l8KTV_7k-6oke2BBmDLRSkx2565gDyMsr3_6g0JwK6AezhuDL8blpRaS9HKoPrr3k353e77VGFSN9kGLc-wR6ahVWMYtbE/s1600/May_Manton_906001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAncx8KMoI25p3_RaezL5Nqw50NSFp6Kw6V15Hz4-yTN05l8KTV_7k-6oke2BBmDLRSkx2565gDyMsr3_6g0JwK6AezhuDL8blpRaS9HKoPrr3k353e77VGFSN9kGLc-wR6ahVWMYtbE/s1600/May_Manton_906001.jpg" width="276" /></a></div>
Best guess is the 19-teens or a little earlier.<br />
<br />
This one is in the category of "Who knew?" Who knew that ladies made bags for their corsets? Who knew that they then <i>embroidered</i> them? (and even <i>spent money </i>on transfer patterns for the designs!) <br />
<br />
Interestingly, this pattern for embroidering a long, narrow bag probably dates to a period when corsets had reached a rather extreme length. The Metropolitan Museum of Art dates this fine example to 1917-1919.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibf7VCgy02FrJ5nHkx4m_r3QvKYZCdHZwn3bpmcY503v6RXOg_NIJ7nHt3I5_wSd7E4nmbp2tEn_TDYkkaAfE0aA-OtSMMAQ30-2azWPdnytWH82WpimtSf8EsA1pgx3vgFmVIvhwo0RM/s1600/met_museum_2009.30.2763_1917_Corset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibf7VCgy02FrJ5nHkx4m_r3QvKYZCdHZwn3bpmcY503v6RXOg_NIJ7nHt3I5_wSd7E4nmbp2tEn_TDYkkaAfE0aA-OtSMMAQ30-2azWPdnytWH82WpimtSf8EsA1pgx3vgFmVIvhwo0RM/s1600/met_museum_2009.30.2763_1917_Corset.jpg" width="490" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/157626?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=corset&pos=1" target="_blank">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In 1910 the magazine <i>The Women's Home Companion</i> offered kits for laundry bags, sponge bags, and corset bags, in stamped linen in pink, blue, lavender, or white. "A most useful set of bags either for the college girl or for the home girl...These bags are especially useful for traveling and they would make a very pretty gift for birthday or Christmas. The stamped linen bag would set you back 40 cents. Fifteen cents more would get you the thread and the cord. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-L2BkZbciNuIz8RbwsIRbuy4jy1zH-yWejMhndJ2WcIVMD8SZqlWXMXd8Ux6D71jX5uuBD1npUq-mqS8d0VbFZRZBF7X-cyJ4_BsZLhqithMujGKNawjmALTuFU-8q4Vj-7MENlFi1E0/s1600/Screenshot+2016-09-02+12.04.10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-L2BkZbciNuIz8RbwsIRbuy4jy1zH-yWejMhndJ2WcIVMD8SZqlWXMXd8Ux6D71jX5uuBD1npUq-mqS8d0VbFZRZBF7X-cyJ4_BsZLhqithMujGKNawjmALTuFU-8q4Vj-7MENlFi1E0/s400/Screenshot+2016-09-02+12.04.10.png" width="152" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=iSo8AQAAMAAJ&pg=RA1-PA49&dq=home+pattern+company+1569&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjQ252brvHOAhUU82MKHXCAD30Q6AEIHDAA#v=onepage&q=corset%20bag&f=false" target="_blank">Womens Home Journal, 1910</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Particularly when packing corsets for traveling, the laces, stud-and-loop busks, and the garters all had the potential to snag, so the corset bag protected a lady's frillies <i>from</i> her corset. But protecting the corset itself is important as well. Good quality corsets could be quite expensive, and a lady might have several. As well as an "everyday" corset, a lady might have one suitable for evening clothes, or a flexible, lighter-weight model for summer or sports wear. I assume that each bag was design to hold only a single corset.<br />
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043247847121448066.post-49390409378693834942014-01-26T14:46:00.000-08:002014-01-26T14:46:19.976-08:00McCall 1104 - Ladies' and Misses' Apron<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_lXHRbHN1vr3g4qQ98jR159Wd84HrvZdGtO9rAzzRwH6sQBmCoNpE1thTkoRpPBwzCLWUnEq5wDTA45MbnQF5RoqXtNDFpUpot_8WkD-thyphenhyphen_0PYaopabzOcA6FCSrZS7WhUXsR9qen_0/s1600/mccall_1104_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_lXHRbHN1vr3g4qQ98jR159Wd84HrvZdGtO9rAzzRwH6sQBmCoNpE1thTkoRpPBwzCLWUnEq5wDTA45MbnQF5RoqXtNDFpUpot_8WkD-thyphenhyphen_0PYaopabzOcA6FCSrZS7WhUXsR9qen_0/s1600/mccall_1104_f.jpg" height="640" width="514" /></a></div>
<br />
1944<br />
<br />
If you tell most people to close their eyes and imagine a "vintage apron" this is the apron they'll see in their mind's eye. This apron goes by many names: pinafore apron, bib apron, farmhouse apron, kitchen apron, full coverage apron, work apron, church ladies' apron. The pattern companies have always offered this style of apron for their customers, though in the last 15 years or so the style has been called out more as a vintage or retro offering than work wear.<br />
<br />
This particular pattern shows up on eBay pretty regularly. There may be several reasons for this. It may have been considered a good teaching pattern for Home Economics classes. For some wartime industrial jobs, this type of apron would have been acceptable work wear. If the pattern companies reduced their new offerings during World War II, women might have had fewer choices when they went to buy an apron pattern. I have two copies of this apron pattern. One is pristine and unused. And then there is this one, which I thought was much more interesting.<br />
<br />
This pattern has had a very productive life. Both the envelope and the pattern pieces have seen a lot of use. This was somebody's favorite apron pattern - or perhaps the maker had neither the desire nor the means to replace a perfectly functional pattern. I suspect she made aprons for her own use. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwcqswx8dBq_uw1LpQqfT6vMh6UNzW1C4OBKM2r3yRRF_ahWw5CnKkP1YbPGii8-9WcVIUQvwztbjTaXjZlM7-ZjdZkqEHbd4A2maXpEpIP3q0N09wugYskUiJMA3Cyit6J50aXnjtXBM/s1600/McCall_1104_edgewear_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwcqswx8dBq_uw1LpQqfT6vMh6UNzW1C4OBKM2r3yRRF_ahWw5CnKkP1YbPGii8-9WcVIUQvwztbjTaXjZlM7-ZjdZkqEHbd4A2maXpEpIP3q0N09wugYskUiJMA3Cyit6J50aXnjtXBM/s1600/McCall_1104_edgewear_2.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPIvx8DLmROfMLr-3NWODp2jmmmruJf8UHPbNDnWzWS9w3T6SloJIv8GcQUTECfP-mpoUspZIhMU_kt3fM4Nbg6Yb8jAspTQS9wrFVD09zV121AgQlCvdEf05zVb614jOBZGrNHboLHKg/s1600/McCall_1104_edgewear_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPIvx8DLmROfMLr-3NWODp2jmmmruJf8UHPbNDnWzWS9w3T6SloJIv8GcQUTECfP-mpoUspZIhMU_kt3fM4Nbg6Yb8jAspTQS9wrFVD09zV121AgQlCvdEf05zVb614jOBZGrNHboLHKg/s1600/McCall_1104_edgewear_1.JPG" height="630" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Observing the way a pattern has been used almost allows us to hear the maker's voice:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"I never cut that little facing piece for the back - too much trouble."<br />"I don't know why you'd need to a pattern piece for the strings - they're just rectangles, and anyway, I like mine narrower/wider/longer/shorter."<br />"I don't pay any attention to the grain line for the lower back piece - I just line up the back edge along the selvage - it's faster that way.""<br />"Why would I want to spend time putting those pepper appliques on a work apron?" </blockquote>
I decided to start the new year by making myself a new apron, and I chose to use this pattern more or less as it was provided, using the pattern pieces for the fiddly facing bits and the strings, but not the pepper appliques - my whimsy goes only so far! The fabric is a remnant I've had in my stash for years, and regular readers will recognize the lavender gingham bias binding from an enormous quantity I cut a few years ago and use regularly.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPB5sBl1nDQUcwWE0mIURt1GrpflOWOrHkk03R9oHzqecbPSRbyWSqX8GA5kCozuZVRMFz-5NcEbk8W9d9wSxjU8aSsUH2vE7m6UieoS7PWjE715Kljm2Y1foEXjbyW_K9AcIogl75dQ/s1600/McCall_1104_layout.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPB5sBl1nDQUcwWE0mIURt1GrpflOWOrHkk03R9oHzqecbPSRbyWSqX8GA5kCozuZVRMFz-5NcEbk8W9d9wSxjU8aSsUH2vE7m6UieoS7PWjE715Kljm2Y1foEXjbyW_K9AcIogl75dQ/s1600/McCall_1104_layout.JPG" height="640" width="448" /></a></div>
<br />
Here's that facing piece (on the right; the upper back apron is on the left.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq2aCRrtnofnd-uIdabkCP6EuRMAcbPNtJ2nd1ZqKN36PTvW2YM7hpSK4cWyG8a4OlPYlEsqUIGp0c-A6Rnjz8P5KrQ6Vi_HEIBDcBDPjITVU6D2XPZSZhI39LPqooGl_XxBtl40xmRVQ/s1600/McCall_1104_facing_piece.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq2aCRrtnofnd-uIdabkCP6EuRMAcbPNtJ2nd1ZqKN36PTvW2YM7hpSK4cWyG8a4OlPYlEsqUIGp0c-A6Rnjz8P5KrQ6Vi_HEIBDcBDPjITVU6D2XPZSZhI39LPqooGl_XxBtl40xmRVQ/s1600/McCall_1104_facing_piece.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
This pattern specifies one inch binding - <i>eight yards</i> of it, finishing to 1/4 inch. My current sewing machine doesn't have a binder attachment, and I don't trust myself to sew the binding on in one pass, so I pinned and sewed it first to the back, then folded to the front, pressed and pinned again, and finally sewing down on the front. This is one of my very least favorite sewing operations, but I do love the look of the end result.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd_KDCP3E_VwZw7AdcGU9uR_LMulwr276BFOg2cDEDYmhJWiendtCa4Y2YM7GzjDjyj2pPqWKJZ6vsfrqQ8P5Ie3v1C1LhXaA_3F_udvFSX7Z8vjFc3QVS1CL3EoB6W2BIInHv8ge8nx0/s1600/McCall_1104_facing_binding.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd_KDCP3E_VwZw7AdcGU9uR_LMulwr276BFOg2cDEDYmhJWiendtCa4Y2YM7GzjDjyj2pPqWKJZ6vsfrqQ8P5Ie3v1C1LhXaA_3F_udvFSX7Z8vjFc3QVS1CL3EoB6W2BIInHv8ge8nx0/s1600/McCall_1104_facing_binding.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
As usual with McCall patterns, this printed pattern was very accurate and went together very well. <br />
<br />
Note the horizontal slashed dart in the side fronts to add bust fullness. You can see on the inside where I've left in my yellow gathering stitches.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBD5SeP3lZPmxsigmrT26BDCgFrviKyStBcMoBA-tOkAKTpPoaG9MAgfPC-XBt-nvCNtre0zvlMdTqho8EiLXBmS8w9k53QsaryK3MNgU263HfWTC8gmgeq6KSZFSuxF4cGaPQt9sjWs4/s1600/McCall_1104_dart_inside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBD5SeP3lZPmxsigmrT26BDCgFrviKyStBcMoBA-tOkAKTpPoaG9MAgfPC-XBt-nvCNtre0zvlMdTqho8EiLXBmS8w9k53QsaryK3MNgU263HfWTC8gmgeq6KSZFSuxF4cGaPQt9sjWs4/s1600/McCall_1104_dart_inside.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Although the instructions didn't call for it, I topstitched this dart for added strength.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCazK9xyse54PKTh0WdB-7AmbMhwf8w1lktQI9EKXG_finM2RG4nn1BVUvsOE82APUfascmKOluF605phHzzbTUt2Epk403iiVqWfqx0yiQHOHKs9GTKrvbY9kkPpn4GQ__9fkLa8ZZE/s1600/McCall_1104_dart_outside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCazK9xyse54PKTh0WdB-7AmbMhwf8w1lktQI9EKXG_finM2RG4nn1BVUvsOE82APUfascmKOluF605phHzzbTUt2Epk403iiVqWfqx0yiQHOHKs9GTKrvbY9kkPpn4GQ__9fkLa8ZZE/s1600/McCall_1104_dart_outside.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Here's the completed apron, just before its maiden voyage to the kitchen. I'm afraid it'll never look this nice again:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGFBD05ZBqL80KuEJg98Cnng4g5NRQsrzFBd8rNkbwrLVdHTWQvyAsyUorFuBQqeKtLemOWLvbJXfQISr6CEpD3rGMrrPZEKcCyUaY5G8n9UODcJDqGQ6MYFSH1rkCOVk6BqlbbJzykg/s1600/McCall_1104_complete.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGFBD05ZBqL80KuEJg98Cnng4g5NRQsrzFBd8rNkbwrLVdHTWQvyAsyUorFuBQqeKtLemOWLvbJXfQISr6CEpD3rGMrrPZEKcCyUaY5G8n9UODcJDqGQ6MYFSH1rkCOVk6BqlbbJzykg/s1600/McCall_1104_complete.JPG" height="640" width="368" /></a></div>
<br />
Here it is opened out, showing that it would be relatively easy to iron (if one were so inclined.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoJeHk95AJEAxGmRZLfIsvbr6nAVUTO1VJkaaOCqr5YzSKb5EwsK5hkkTUxsNHjZmiTIWC1LkTm_2efLsNpENKnGxtgxpJ_TxK4wFvVU0m22BTEdAXKkGB25VaUJHzFzMqmheVmfnmv14/s1600/McCall_1104_open_out.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoJeHk95AJEAxGmRZLfIsvbr6nAVUTO1VJkaaOCqr5YzSKb5EwsK5hkkTUxsNHjZmiTIWC1LkTm_2efLsNpENKnGxtgxpJ_TxK4wFvVU0m22BTEdAXKkGB25VaUJHzFzMqmheVmfnmv14/s1600/McCall_1104_open_out.JPG" height="387" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The back is fastened with a single vintage shell button from my stash. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_2QZRS_r6tkpAxxuLvjlBRm1bLkBrUw04EJIiuXqK0uXz5bDyKXaARkKNcUc6jjVyIxnmhPup1mSMnlFAw_22ML2S3R_03TOVApmQo5g3RPXS_ssqO036mnEtd3zGH5-OC3JZvYa0fcA/s1600/McCall_1104_button_back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_2QZRS_r6tkpAxxuLvjlBRm1bLkBrUw04EJIiuXqK0uXz5bDyKXaARkKNcUc6jjVyIxnmhPup1mSMnlFAw_22ML2S3R_03TOVApmQo5g3RPXS_ssqO036mnEtd3zGH5-OC3JZvYa0fcA/s1600/McCall_1104_button_back.JPG" height="444" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've been wearing this apron for kitchen work for about two weeks now, and I find it very comfortable. I think I understand why the pattern was used so much.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWPjYEtp7v_6qaUP-odDm_eTDe112JdXXGUo6Gu1fxXWpmLouQ5OS2cVhpWuEk52SZlBrBhxol3fDKF9TspYyiAHozoDfcwZWGmQv2IGAL1z1M_oJjBuqtbV285Hyo2Rl0RxF3w_sBl8/s1600/mccall_1104_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWPjYEtp7v_6qaUP-odDm_eTDe112JdXXGUo6Gu1fxXWpmLouQ5OS2cVhpWuEk52SZlBrBhxol3fDKF9TspYyiAHozoDfcwZWGmQv2IGAL1z1M_oJjBuqtbV285Hyo2Rl0RxF3w_sBl8/s1600/mccall_1104_b.jpg" height="640" width="498" /></a></div>
<br />andrea.at.the.blue.doorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08532947489421472003noreply@blogger.com12