McCall 1090- Ladies' and Misses' Victory Apron

1943.

So that you don't have to find your reading glasses, here is the verse on the envelope front:

Tie this apron round your waist
And join the Victory war-on-waste,
Plan your meals for zest and vim
And don't forget Ye Vitamine!
Remember that the right nutrition
Is Uncle Sam's best ammunition!

I'm guessing that this was written by that nice Mr. Murple up in McCall's Accounting department - who knew he was so talented.

This is a lovely apron pattern - easy enough to be made by girls in home ec. classes as well as by ladies' groups.  Imagine refreshments tables at dances with all the attendants in their victory aprons worn over white dresses.  The rick-rack braid stars are very clever.

In my family we have a cookbook which we refer to as the Women's Victory Cookbook.  The correct name is the Victory Binding of the American Woman's Cookbook, an enormously popular cookbook of the mid-twentieth century.  The Victory binding edition provides a small appendix on wartime cookery, which includes such contemporary-sounding advice as eating more fish and whole grains and retaining the vitamins in vegetables by not boiling them to death.

Happy Memorial Day, everybody.

Butterick 2209 - The American Red Cross Volunteer Special Service Outdoor Uniform

"1/14/43" is written on the flap of the envelope of this one.

Women's Red Cross uniforms had been re-designed around 1941 by Elizabeth Hawes to be more contemporary looking.  "Red Cross Lassies Get Snappy New Uniforms,"  burbled the St. Petersburg Times on May 4, 1941.  Indeed, without the epaulettes (and the cap) this is a pretty standard women's suit of the time.

Wool gabardine in blue-gray would have been used for View A, the winter uniform.  View B, the summer uniform, would have been made up in a rayon-mohair mix for summer weight or seersucker for tropical weight.

By April 1942, about 20,000 women wore some type of Red Cross uniform.  The Red Cross had to walk a fine line between complying with the overall need to economize in every possible way and to assure that its workers were properly recognized.  The New York Times reported on April 3, 1942 that the bellows pocket with flap that had previously been used on jackets was being dropped in favor of pockets using less material.  In the same article, Mrs. Dwight Davis, the Red Cross's national director of  volunteer special services stated that uniforms should be reserved for women who spent the bulk of their time performing Red Cross-related activities - particularly if this work took them out in public:  women working in chapter work rooms were not to wear uniforms.

Even though uniforms could be purchased at department stores, making or having a uniform made might have been a good option for a woman who required special care in fitting.  This uniform pattern was available in bust sizes from 30" to 46" - a much wider range than that of patterns for civilian clothes.

While the envelope for this pattern is rough around the edges, this unprinted pattern does not appear to have been used, possibly because there was less demand for the generous size 46.

The American Red Cross was founded on May 21st, 1881.

McCall - Clothes to Fit the Little Lady Doll

1942

During World War II, even dolls could help the war effort, either by nursing with the Red Cross or by working for the U.S. Office of Civilian Defense as an Air Raid Warden.

It's interesting that the two occupational garments are given top billing in the illustration, while the party dress and school clothes provide hope for the future.

The Office of Civilian Defense was established on May 20th, 1941, a little less than six months before the attack on Pearl Harbor.

The designers were careful to be accurate in rendering the insignia for the armband, though they had to simplify it a little due to the very small size.

Butterick 1847 - Women's and Misses' Coverall, and Leggings

Mid 1940s (World War II.)

Here's the description from the back of the envelope:

A Jumper Style Coverall, designed to give the full skirt protection that much farm work and gardening requires.  Roomy pockets are conveniently placed.  The front opening makes it easy to put on and take off. Knee-length leggings are included.

One of the problems that the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) had to contend with during both world wars was a shortage of agricultural labor.  Men who didn't enlist were recruited to work in industries supporting the war effort, making them unavailable to work their own farms or to work as hired hands.  Women stepped up to fill the short fall, sometimes by enlisting in the Women's Land Army, often by taking on more responsibilities on their family's or local farms.

Overalls for women started to be marketed during World War I,  and women had started wearing trousers in public in the 1930s, generally as sporty wear, so by the start of WWII the idea of women in trousers wasn't entirely new. Yet the USDA seems to have felt there was a need to offer some support for women who needed to do dirty agricultural work but weren't ready to wear trousers or overalls.  A sturdy apron and leggings were apparently seen to be a workable solution.  Here's a terrific image of women at the USDA designing work clothes for women at this period.

Many thanks to Jim Christensen for pointing out that this very ensemble was described and illustrated in Clarice Louisba Scott's book Work Clothes for Women, issued by the USDA in June, 1942.

By WWII "coverall" is a fairly common term for this type of apron.  ("Overall" seems to have been used in Great Britain.) Patterns for leggings for girls show up throughout the '30s and '40s, usually as part of a winter ensemble including a coat and hat.  This is the first time I've seen a leggings pattern for women.  The option to use 1/2" studs (snap fasteners) is uncommon.

This is an unprinted pattern and does not appear to have been used.

Originally published on 21 January 2011, updated with additional documentary evidence on 23 January, 2011.

Simplicity 4626 - American Red Cross Uniform

No earlier than 1942, as this is when the older style veil was replaced by the trimmer coif illustrated here.(1)

The description reads:

American Red Cross Volunteer Special Service Corps, Washable Uniforms for Administration, Staff Assistant, Production, Braille, Canteen, Home Service, Hospital and Recreation and Paid Staff Workers (Except Hospital Workers).

The uniform on the right would appear to be that of a Gray Lady (part of the Hospital and Recreation service.)

Even though commercially produced uniforms seem to have been readily available, the Simplicity company must have thought there was enough of a demand for a pattern to make this one available, as well as number 4694, home nursing pinafore and canteen apron.

Here's an example of a commercially produced uniform in the collection of the University of North Carolina.

No fabric recommendations are given, presumably because the ARC would have issued their own specific instructions on this.

(1) Shirley Powers's web site, http://www.collectarc.com/ was very helpful here.

Simplicity 1459 - Women's One-Piece Dress

Mid to late 1940's.  Because this one doesn't explicitly call itself a housedress, the illustrator felt the need to show us the activities for which this casual, summery dress was suitable, such as mopping the floor.  The version on the right, made up in chambray and trimmed with eyelet ruffling, will see you nicely dressed for a quick trip to the corner market.

This being the 1940's, shoulder pads are called for.  Note that the back illustration and the fabric requirements list an option 3 for a version with contrasting yoke and sleeves. This type of color blocking is popular at this time.

Advance 3249 - Overalls

World War II

The image of World War II's "Rosie the Riveter" is so firmly embedded in our culture that the Library of Congress calls their collection of images of women at work during WWII The Rosie Pictures.

But where did these women get their work duds?  For the most part, they probably did what many of us still do today - they wore men's clothes.

However, Advance thought it was worth offering an overalls pattern for women.   Nothing fancy about this pattern; only one view is given.  Yardages are given for only 36" and 39" width fabric, common widths for denim.

If you couldn't find a pattern locally, Montgomery Ward could supply you.  Here are three patterns they offered at 5 cents each (very reasonable; note that the Advance pattern would set you back 15 cents.)

Ward's would also sell you your fabric, having employed some patriotic copy editing to what were, for the most part, standard fabrics:

The Advance overalls in a size 18 will require 3 1/4 yard of 36" wide fabric.

If making your own wasn't an option, Wards offered a nice line of women's workwear featuring a "Victory Volunteers" emblem.  These bib-top overalls were described as "a sensible choice for your wartime job" and were offered in three qualities:  Best quality came in gunpowder blue twill jean for $3.77, Better quality came in navy and white pin check for $2.95, Good quality came in blue Sanforized denim for $1.95 and didn't have the emblem.

Everybody got to participate in marketing the Victory Volunteers effort:

I couldn't get a clear enough image to insert here, but there were even Volunteers for Victory paper dolls!

Wards would also sell you Sanforized denim overalls.  Although these were marketed for "Victory Workers, Farm and Factory," they may have been part of their standard line and not specific to the war.  The description tells us that these will "take countless washings and ironings" and that they have "metal buttons for a smart, workmanlike appearance."

Not all women worked in factories; many did agricultural work, either on their own family's farms, orchards, and ranches, or through organizations such as the Women's Land Army.

Women riveting ships together or working in the fields probably didn't have time to sew, but their mothers or aunts might have helped out. 

Yarn companies produced a variety of booklets of items to knit for military men and women, but the folks at Chadwick's Red Heart Yarn remembered the civilian women with their booklet Women's Sweaters - America at Work and Play.  The cover model is their Victory Girl.

This practical cardigan was offered as well.  While having a sweater you've knit yourself gives a nice sense of accomplishment, we shouldn't overlook the benefit of the soothing, repetitive nature of knitting, particularly during a stressful period.

Simplicity 4737 - Women's Jumper and Blouse

World War II - probably 1942 - 1945

This blouse and jumper combination is pleasant but not really remarkable until you read the back of the envelope:

The blouse can be cut from a man's shirt and the jumper from an old dress, for which instructions are included.

And here they are:

Making over clothing has been practiced as long as there has been clothing, but it's only during times of war or economic hardship that the practice tends to get a public seal of approval. The booklet Make and Mend for Victory shows up on eBay regularly, so thousands of copies must have been printed; people probably felt patriotic just buying a copy. The New Encyclopedia of Modern Sewing, published in 1943 includes a chapter on making over garments. Here are few ways to use men's clothing.

It would be interesting to know how well people were able identify remade clothes worn by others and what their thoughts were when they observed children wearing rather somber grey or navy home-made coats. Was the practice common enough that nobody thought much of it, were the practitioners uneasy about it, were children teased for wearing made over garments. This kind of social history of clothing can be hard to document.

Simplicity 4694 - Official Red Cross Home Nursing Pinafore and Canteen Apron

World War II (probably after 1941)

LIFE photograph by George Strock, 1941

Interestingly, no fabric recommendations are made, and yardages are given only for 35" wide material, so I'm assuming the Red Cross made recommendations or supplied the fabric.

The Red Cross museum site has a nice overview of WW II canteens here. Make sure you scroll all the way to the bottom for a link to a PDF that will tell you how to recreate a WWII canteen.

The Red Cross also offered home nursing courses during the war, in part to mitigate the shortage of doctors.

McCall 5345 Ladies' and Misses' Coverall

1943.  The illustrator wants to make sure you understand the function of this garment; one wears this coverall with sensible (but very cute) little flat shoes in the kitchen, where the carpet sweeper awaits you once you doff your bright red rubber gloves.

This war-time dress, cut from about four yards of 36" wide fabric is wrap-fronted but not reversible fronted like the earlier Hoover aprons.

The instruction sheet still gives directions for making hand-worked button holes, and also expects that you'll baste the sleeves in by hand before sewing them on the machine.