Simplicity 4683 - Men's, Boys' and Women's Apron

Mid 1940s.

This unprinted pattern dates to before 1946, as this is apparently when Simplicity started printing their patterns.

A nice, straightforward apron for the Gentleman and his Missus, who has also made Buddy a spiffy apron for his first Industrial Arts class.  Why the illustrator chose to show the Gentleman wearing a shop apron but gearing up for kitchen duty is a bit of mystery.  And that tiny little cookbook he's holding seems to be awfully entertaining.

Your fifteen cents really bought you a good, thoughtful design.  Note that the Men's and Boys apron is darted at the sides.  This will make the apron set close through the hips, which will probably make it safer by making it less likely to snag, and should also make it more efficient at keeping the wearer clean.

The handling of the shoulder straps and ties is clever.  The straps will adjust to almost any size or shape and don't require any hardware to fasten:

Note that the topstitching around the pockets and the edges make this a very sturdy garment.

No fabric recommendations are given, but the aprons in the illustration surely look like chambray.  Denim would also have been popular, and frequently came in the 35" width called out in the yardage requirements.

Here is the men's apron made up in denim:

Here are the side darts from the inside:

And here they are from the outside:

The instructions call for a small patch of fabric to be sewn in as a backing for the button holes on the sides.  You can see that I've sewn down the patch and stitched a rectangle to outline the buttonhole.  The button holes were worked by hand.

And in the event this apron ever wanders away, I've "branded" it.

In the future, I'd probably use a good-quality twill tape for the straps, rather than making them myself, since folding those narrow strips of denim resulted in a certain amount of questionable language as I repeatedly steamed my fingers.

This denim is wonderful to work with.  Made under the SAFEDenim brand, it's made entirely in the United States by farmers who are trying to produce a sustainable product.  Cotton is demanding of the soil and can require enormous amounts of pesticides, so producing this denim requires a lot of commitment from the farmers.  I don't know where you can buy yard goods, but if you're willing to commit to a 30 yard bolt, you can buy it from the web site.

You can get a free pattern for a very similar apron from the James Thompson web site, makers of my preferred pillow ticking.  (This apron would also look great made up in ticking.)

Originally posted on June 8, 2011.  Additional material added to show the men's apron made up.

Simplicity 1961 - Man's Shirt

The Vintage Pattern wiki dates this one to 1943, smack-dab in the middle of World War II.  Note the obligatory sign of manliness: Mr. A's pipe.

This one shows up on eBay all the time.  At any given time there seem to be at least three or four listings for this shirt.  This is a good, functional pattern that will work both as a casual or work shirt, and when made up in heavier materials becomes a nice between-seasons shirt jacket (think of the old Woolrich shirt-jacs.)

Although additional research may reveal that the pattern companies limited their new style offerings during the War, I suspect that a large part of the pattern's appeal was its simplicity.  The front is simply turned under, rather than having a front placket.  Plackets have also been eliminated from the sleeve openings, in favor of simple facings.  However, the maker of this pattern (or the gentleman) apparently preferred sleeves with plackets, because the sleeve facing piece hasn't been used, and included in the envelope are the placket and underlap pieces from a dress shirt pattern, McCall pattern 5864, along with a clipping from the pattern sheet  showing how to apply these.  The maker used only the upper pockets and flaps.

Simplicity still assumes that the maker may not have a button hole attachment and that hand-worked button holes may be needed.

Simplicity 4626 - American Red Cross Uniform

No earlier than 1942, as this is when the older style veil was replaced by the trimmer coif illustrated here.(1)

The description reads:

American Red Cross Volunteer Special Service Corps, Washable Uniforms for Administration, Staff Assistant, Production, Braille, Canteen, Home Service, Hospital and Recreation and Paid Staff Workers (Except Hospital Workers).

The uniform on the right would appear to be that of a Gray Lady (part of the Hospital and Recreation service.)

Even though commercially produced uniforms seem to have been readily available, the Simplicity company must have thought there was enough of a demand for a pattern to make this one available, as well as number 4694, home nursing pinafore and canteen apron.

Here's an example of a commercially produced uniform in the collection of the University of North Carolina.

No fabric recommendations are given, presumably because the ARC would have issued their own specific instructions on this.

(1) Shirley Powers's web site, http://www.collectarc.com/ was very helpful here.

Simplicity 1459 - Women's One-Piece Dress

Mid to late 1940's.  Because this one doesn't explicitly call itself a housedress, the illustrator felt the need to show us the activities for which this casual, summery dress was suitable, such as mopping the floor.  The version on the right, made up in chambray and trimmed with eyelet ruffling, will see you nicely dressed for a quick trip to the corner market.

This being the 1940's, shoulder pads are called for.  Note that the back illustration and the fabric requirements list an option 3 for a version with contrasting yoke and sleeves. This type of color blocking is popular at this time.

Simplicity 7100 - Uncle Sam

Early 1930s.

Check the coverage index (to the left) for more Uncle Sam patterns.  The illustrator seems to have forgotten that our Uncle Sam has only chin whiskers - the slightly fringy mustache is distracting.  But the overall look is consistent with our image of Uncle Sam.  (Though I'm partial to the starry-coated versions myself.)

Remember that at this time Simplicity has only been in business a few years and is still marketing the practicality and economy of its patterns. But alongside the practical three-in-one patterns for pajamas, aprons, rompers, and house dresses, the company thought it worthwhile to offer Colonial Cut-out Patterns for Social Functions.

The United States had had its 150th birthday a few years earlier in 1926, so Uncle Sam was much in the popular imagination, and not only in the United States; in January1929 he made an appearance at a New Zealand costume ball.  Remember that January is high summer in Australia; I hope Uncle was provided with many glasses of punch.

The instructions for this Uncle Sam Suit are printed on one side of a single sheet of paper only marginally thicker than the pattern tissue.  Here's a sample; get out your magnifying glass and pay attention!

I wonder how many worn out top hats were given a coat of white house paint and a nice blue ribbon to finish off the look in time for the 4th of July parade.

Simplicity 7101 - Sweet Young Thing

Early 1930s

This pattern is a companion to Simplicity 7100, Uncle Sam.  Uncle Sam is generally thought to be a bachelor, but for couples who wanted to coordinate at their local fancy dress ball, some option was needed for the ladies.

The "Sweet Young Thing" designation is unusual; usually eighteenth century themed costumes for ladies are titled Martha Washington or Dolly Madison.  I've never understood why Betsy Ross didn't surface in the popular imagination, but I haven't yet seen a fancy dress pattern named or themed after her.  Somewhat confusingly, the instruction sheet calls this model "A Young Virginia Miss."

Pattern companies weren't interested in reproducing historical clothing exactly; instead, their patterns represent (mostly) current styles which borrow from history.  Here is an example of what the colonial period actually looked like, as represented by a gown worn by Martha Washington in the 1780s.  It was donated to the Smithsonian Institution in 1929.  The sleeves would have been finished with finely gathered lace or lawn; the little poofy sleeves worn by Miss S. Y. Thing are pure 1930's.

Simplicity 2291 - Misses' and Women's Smock

1930s.

This smock gathered into a shaped yoke is beautifully stylish.  Yet, even so, it was considered acceptable to piece the sides (piece B) and the sleeves (piece A.)

Here's some detail of the instructions for sewing the smock to the yoke.  Careful basting would be needed here.

This garment just seems to cry out to be made in beautiful Liberty lawn.

Simplicity 4267 - Boy's Baseball Suit, Shirt, Shorts, and Cap

1953.

Recommended fabrics for the baseball uniform include cotton, denim, flannelette, and wool.  About four yards of military braid is required for the baseball uniform.

The little guy on the lower left is really nicely turned out, in his cool summer seersucker outfit with matching blue socks and saddle shoes.

Only the pattern pieces for the shorts appear to have been used.

Updated to add instructions for cap.

Simplicity 376 - Utility Robe

About 1930.

I've seen the word "utility" used to describe clothing as early as 1898, but the term gets its last big hurrah during World War II, particularly in Britain, where utility clothing was endorsed by the government.  I suspect the whole idea of utility clothing carried such emotionally difficult connotations by the time the war was over that nobody ever wanted to hear the term again, and I don't think anybody has.

Thus, a utility robe is serviceable and economical to make and maintain.  Simplicity's three-in-one strategy serves them well with this pattern.  Here is the chirpy description from the instruction sheet:

Three distinctly different utility garments for 'round the house wear may be made from this one SIMPLICITY hand cut pattern.

Style #1 With its feminine frill is a dainty, useful morning apron or house-frock.

Style #2 A careful choice of fabrics creates a mannish, tailored, lounging robe.

Style #3 The Hooverette is the ideal garment for the practical side of housekeeping.

This fairly brief passage gives us a lot of information.  First, these garments were for household wear only, although I suspect it was acceptable to go out in the back yard to hang some laundry or to nip on down to the end of the driveway to leave a letter in the mailbox.  Also, even for garments worn only at home, a desire for femininity is recognized (or perhaps just marketed to.)  Lastly, a morning apron and a Hooverette were either perceived to have different functions, or met differing ideas of acceptable or desirable dress.  (For example, my grandmother wore house coats, I wear robes, they look pretty much identical to me, but I would probably shop for a robe pattern rather than one for a house coat.)

Simplicity 1505 - Ladies' Nightgown

Mid 1930's.

A nice simple nightgown pattern.  The model on the left is clearly made of flannel.  The model on the right is probably batiste, with the puffed sleeves and lace trim around the neckline adding a little feminine fancy.

The advertising slogan "You are always in style when you dress with SIMPLICITY" represents a slight shift in Simplicity's marketing strategy of providing well-made patterns for making serviceable clothing.

Simplicity 4737 - Women's Jumper and Blouse

World War II - probably 1942 - 1945

This blouse and jumper combination is pleasant but not really remarkable until you read the back of the envelope:

The blouse can be cut from a man's shirt and the jumper from an old dress, for which instructions are included.

And here they are:

Making over clothing has been practiced as long as there has been clothing, but it's only during times of war or economic hardship that the practice tends to get a public seal of approval. The booklet Make and Mend for Victory shows up on eBay regularly, so thousands of copies must have been printed; people probably felt patriotic just buying a copy. The New Encyclopedia of Modern Sewing, published in 1943 includes a chapter on making over garments. Here are few ways to use men's clothing.

It would be interesting to know how well people were able identify remade clothes worn by others and what their thoughts were when they observed children wearing rather somber grey or navy home-made coats. Was the practice common enough that nobody thought much of it, were the practitioners uneasy about it, were children teased for wearing made over garments. This kind of social history of clothing can be hard to document.

Simplicity 2667 - Misses' and Women's Dress and Apron

Late 1930s.

The pattern is described:

Collar joins in tiny revers. Princess fitting with slight flare at lower edge of skirt. Apron with patch pockets and straps over the shoulder, ties at the back.

The ruffled trim on the sleeves and collar is purchased. It's a bit unusual to see this on a house dress, a garment designed primarily for ease of laundering.

The prints in the illustration are pretty, and the matching dress and apron make for a nicely "finished" look. You'll need about 7 years of bias binding for the apron.

Recommended fabrics include percale, lawn, seersucker, gingham, poplin, pique, cotton crepe. For the dress only, one can use silk or rayon crepe.

The instructions detail two closing options; with the new-fangled slide fastener, and with snaps and a hook at the waistline.

This is an unprinted pattern. The instruction sheet is of poor quality paper.

Simplicity 4694 - Official Red Cross Home Nursing Pinafore and Canteen Apron

World War II (probably after 1941)

LIFE photograph by George Strock, 1941

Interestingly, no fabric recommendations are made, and yardages are given only for 35" wide material, so I'm assuming the Red Cross made recommendations or supplied the fabric.

The Red Cross museum site has a nice overview of WW II canteens here. Make sure you scroll all the way to the bottom for a link to a PDF that will tell you how to recreate a WWII canteen.

The Red Cross also offered home nursing courses during the war, in part to mitigate the shortage of doctors.

Simplicity 4150 - Men's Western Shirt

1952

Western shirt patterns for both men and women seem to start showing up in the late 1940s and are still available today. This one is pretty typical for the period, and shows up on eBay quite regularly, so it must have been popular.

Suggested fabrics include Cotton, broadcloth, rayon, wool, flannel, denim, gabardine, corduroy, and broadcloth.

Doing a good job of piping pointed yokes and shaped sleeve plackets is no joke; this is not a trivial garment to make.

Simplicity 7006 - Nurses' Uniform

About 1929.

From the description on the back of the envelope:

A uniform whose trim lines always look smart.  The absence of fussy detail assures perfect laundering.

Style 1: Patch pocket model with tailored collar.  A simple good-looking style.

Style 2: A notched collar model with button-trimmed sleeves.

Style 3: The back view of Style 1

It's entertaining that Simplicity's marketing scheme of "3 patterns for the price of 1" fizzled on this one, with the designers simply unable to develop a viable third style for a garment that really does need to be uniform.

Simplicity 7001 - Women's Housedress

Early 1930's.   By this time Simplicity has adjusted their marketing approach slightly.  While still implying economy (3 patterns for the price of 1) they seem to be focusing on ease of use by adding an instruction sheet called the Simplicity Primer.  Note also that they emphasize that the pattern is Hand-Cut; the practice of producing pattern sheets as laid out on the fabric (see Smock pattern 160) has been abandoned.

Here's the description of the pattern from the envelope back:

Every woman needs a frock such as this -

while she is doing house-hold tasks, for it --

is practical enough and smart-enough looking for a --

dash to the grocery.

If you must leave the house while wearing your house dress, you won't feel ashamed of doing so, knowing you're nicely dressed in your smart Simplicity frock.  The sleeveless version would be appreciated by women living in warm climates in this era before air conditioning.

The Primer provides both the layout and detailed instructions (albeit, a little on the small side.)

I made up version 2 in a 1930's reproduction cotton I'd gotten on sale.  I left off the sleeve cuffs and I've no idea where the tie belt is. I wear this dress a lot, even though I find the v-neck a tad low. The neckline on view 3 would probably suit me better. The actual bust measurement is 46".  (Note that the pattern was offered in sizes up to a 50" bust.  Utilitarian patterns like house dresses were more likely to be offered in larger sizes.)   This dress is very easy to iron.